Daikon Radish Microgreens & Seed Sprouting Non-GMO Seeds

Daikon Radish Microgreens Seeds

Non GMO
Heirloom
1/4 LB
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4.99
1 LB
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9.99

About...

(Raphanus sativus) - Radish microgreens are substantial and crunchy, and taste exactly like a radish. Very easy and fast growers. Makes a great garnish or addition to any salad or sandwich. Use sparingly for a radish accent. Daikon Radish is a green crop with an intense radish flavor great in any microgreen salad or full sized salad. Use instead of sliced radish anywhere you would normally use radish. Radish greens have a pleasant peppery bite, whether raw or cooked. Daikon Radish microgreens have a white stem with deep green tops. Read More....

MORE HERB OPTIONS

Daikon radish microgreens seeds Verbascum seeds - mix Milk thistle seeds Lemon catnip seeds Comfrey seeds Tansy seeds Agastache seeds - rugosa Blessed thistle seeds ...More
ABOUT
Planting Guides
FAQ's
VIDEOS

Growing Guide

SEEDING RATE

1 oz per 10 x 20 Tray
TB seed /1 - 2 Cup Sprouts

GROWING MEDIUMS

Hydroponic or Soil

PRESOAK

No

BLACKOUT TIME

2 - 4 Days

SPROUTING METHODS

Tray, Sack or Jar

SPROUTING HARVEST

6 - 9 Days

MICROGREENS HARVEST

10 - 12 Days

BABY GREENS HARVEST

20 Days

FLAVOR PROFILE

Peppery

Microgreen Information

NUTRIENTS

Vitamins A, B, C, E, & K, Folic Acid, Niacin, Potassium, Iron, Phosphorus, Pantothenic Acid, Calcium, Magnesium, Zinc, Carotenes, Antioxidants

MICROGREEN TEXTURE

Crunchy, Succulent

COMMON USES

Salads, Sandwiches

(Continued From Top) - Radish microgreens are fast and easy to grow and are substantial and very crunchy. Due to its fast growth, it can be harvested as early as 6 days, assuming you have exposed them to light on day 3. These radish microgreens are at their peak of crunchiness at about day 5 or 6. Once they grow larger they get more leafy and lose their crunch. You can flip the lid a day before exposing to light to strengthen the crop.

Sprouts - Daikon radish seeds sprout one of the most unmistakably flavorful varieties of sprouting seeds available. Grown for its robust spiced peppery flavor, non-GMO Daikon radish sprouts are a gourmet complement to many traditional Japanese dishes.  Daikon radish sprouts are a great low-calorie source for calcium, potassium, and Vitamin C, an ideal way to sneak some essential raw vitamins into your diet.

Using either a seed sprouting jar, sprouting tray, terra cotta sprouter, or hemp sprout bag. Add about 1 tablespoon of Daikon radish sprout seeds to your container and allow seeds an initial soaking for 4 - 6 hours. After initial soak, continue to rinse Daikon radish sprouting seeds 2 - 3x's per day and immediately drain, not allowing water to sit and soak. Rinse seeds 2 - 3x's per day for 4 - 6 days, keeping radish sprouts fresh, crunchy, and hydrated without waterlogging. Non-GMO Daikon radish sprouts are soon to harvest in just 5 - 6 days, ready for fresh use with a robust peppery radish flavor (still more mild than Red Radish) and only about 15 calories per cup. One tablespoon of seed yields approximately 1 - 2 cups of sprouts.


Harvesting: When sprouts have reached the desired length or have their first tiny green leaves, expose them to light for a few hours to color them up. Hulls may be rinsed out or skimmed off the top of the water with a spoon. They are not harmful to eat, but removal minimizes spoilage in storage. Sprouts can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Note: Our seeds are perfect for growing both indoors and outdoors, allowing you to nurture your own green space regardless of the season. They are versatile, enabling you to germinate plants anytime, anywhere, whether it's inside your home or outside in your garden, opening up new possibilities for your gardening endeavors.

Microgreens Planting Guides

What's Included in Guides

Microgreens Planting Methods

Hydroponic & Soil Methods

Step-by-Step Instructions

Harvesting

Common Questions

Q

I don’t see my question on this FAQ?

A

Please email us at support@outsidepride.com we will use questions to improve this FAQ page.

Q

Are your Seeds Organic and why not?

A

We do not carry organic at this time. All of our seeds are NON-GMO, and untreated.

Q

What if I’m looking for a seed you don’t carry?

A

Please email us at support@outsidepride.com. We’ll try our best to find it and add it to our product line.

Q

What if I’m just getting started? What do I need?

A

Visit our full microgreens growing pages for specific steps. See Planting Guide Tab above.

Q

How important are growing lights?

A

They are not critical, but your crops will need to be exposed to light at the right time. Incandescent, fluorescent, and direct sunlight are all fine. We do use grow lights and prefer LED grow lights as they are light, consume vastly less electricity, produce very little heat, and only give plants the blue and red ends of the spectrum which is what plants absorb. We can’t get greener and more healthy plants even with direct sunlight.

Q

When do I use soil vs hydroponics?

A

You can always use soil for microgreens. Some crops such as sunflower, buckwheat and cilantro are very difficult to grow hydroponically so we recommend using soil. When hydroponic growing method is suitable we recommend it for its easy clean up.

Q

Are grow lights important for microgreens?

A

Grow lights are not critical, your seeds do need to be exposed to light at the right time. Incandescent, fluorescent and natural sunlight all work well.

Q

Why are parts of my microgreen tray rotting?

A

Rot can be caused by several things. Most likely culprit is overwatering or sowing your seeds to thick. You can also check your water pH if it is too alkaline this may also cause some rot.

Q

What seeds to I need to presoak for microgreens?

A

Always check your planting guides, typically seeds with a hard outer shell should be presoaked. Sunflower and buckwheat are examples of seeds that should b e presoaked.

Q

My microgreens are wilting, why?

A

Wilt is caused by not enough water or too much heat.

Q

Can I harvest my same crop twice?

A

Yes, however second crops are typically weak and scraggly. If growing hydroponically we recommend only growing one crop per growing pad.

Q

How important is the pH of my water?

A

pH is important when growing crops.

Q

My plants are pale, what is wrong?

A

Pale plants probably need more light. Try direct sunlight next to a window or setting your trays outdoors. Your plants will angle to get more light so be sure to rotate trays as needed. Grow lights may also be used.

Q

Plants are getting burned or dry sections on their leaves, why?

A

Your plants are probably getting too much light, or you are placing them in the light too early.

Q

My plants are growing very slowly, why?

A

Your plants are probably too cold. Try placing in a warmer location. Trays on granite counters may struggle you can try placing on a towel to protect from the cold countertop.

Q

What is the difference between, sprouts, microgreens and baby greens?

A

These are all the same plants just harvested at different stages of growth.

ABOUT
VIDEOS

Flower Specifications

SEASON

Perennial

USDA ZONES

5 - 8

HEIGHT

24 - 36 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Late spring through summer

BLOOM COLOR

Mix

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun

SOIL TYPE

Well-drained, pH 5.8 - 6.8

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

LATIN NAME

Verbascum Phoenicium

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

68F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

14 - 21 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

Do not cover the seed but press into the soil

SOWING RATE

8 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

18 - 24 inches

CARE & MAINTENANCE

Verbascum

Verbascum (Verbascum Phoenicium Hybrids Mix) - This free flowering mix grown from Verbascum seeds will give your garden weeks of lovely colors. Commonly called Purple Mullein, this plant has dark green, crinkly leaves and beautiful spikes of papery-thin, round 5 - petaled blooms in shades of white, rose, and violet. The Purple Mullein plant starts blooming from the bottom of the spike and proceeds upward, opening one by one. Mullein flowers look lovely in a mixed border, and they can bloom from late spring up until the first frost. It is both deer and rabbit resistant, and butterflies love it! Verbascum flowers are excellent for cutting as well. Also considered to be a medicinal herb, the Mullein herb has diuretic, analgesic, expectorant, and antiseptic properties.

How To Grow Mullein From Seed: Plant Mullein seeds indoors 6 - 8 weeks before last frost date. Lightly press the Verbascum flower seeds into the soil, but do not cover with soil since the seeds need light to germinate. Keep constantly moist, not wet, and the herb seeds will germinate in 14 - 21 days. For outdoor sowing, wait until frost danger has passed, and sow Purple Mullein seeds directly into prepared seed bed. Spacing should be about 18 - 24 inches apart. Verbascum Mullein will bloom the first year if the flower seeds are sown early enough in the season. Flowers can be left on to self-seed or can be deadheaded to encourage more blooming.

ABOUT
FAQ’s
VIDEOS

Herb Specifications

SEASON

Biennial

USDA ZONES

5 - 10

HEIGHT

40 - 55 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Late spring to mid summer

BLOOM COLOR

Pink

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun

SOIL TYPE

Grows in any type of soil, pH 6.6 - 7.8

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

LATIN NAME

Silybum Marianum

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

55 - 70F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

7 - 14 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

1/4 - 1/2 inch

SOWING RATE

1 - 2 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

24 - 36 inches

Milk Thistle (Silybum Marianum) - Milk Thistle seeds grow easily and produce a hardy biennial that is native to the Mediterranean area and has naturalized throughout North America. It is very impressive as an ornamental herb plant. It is tall and stately with large, mottled, spiny foliage that contains a milky sap-like substance and large, thistle-like heads of rose-pink flowers. Milk Thistle herb plants do re-seed themselves, so it is recommended to deadhead the flowers before they set seed. Other common names for this herb plant are Mediterranean Milk Thistle, Marian Thistle, St Mary's Thistle and Holy Thistle.

Milk Thistle is a well-known medicinal herb with a long history of use in the treatment of liver and gallbladder ailments. It is the Milk Thistle seeds that are used medicinally, and they contain silymarin which is a flavonoid. The Milk Thistle herb may have a protective and regenerative effect on liver cells. As a nutritional supplement to support liver function, the seeds can be ground and added to hot cereals or other whole grain dishes.

How To Grow Milk Thistle From Herb Seeds: Grow Milk Thistle seeds directly in the herb garden. Prepare a seedbed and sow the herb seeds in the spring when temperatures have warmed. The Milk Thistle plants prefer full sun, but they are not picky about soils. They are also tolerant of dry and wet soils.

NOTE: Cannot be shipped to Washington State. Any order will be canceled.

Common Questions

Q

Which herbs can thrive in the kitchen?

A

Not all herbs are suitable for indoor growth. Herbs with woody, bushy growth, like rosemary are too large for indoor herb gardens. Consider other more suitable herbs for an indoor kitchen garden, such as chives, oregano, thyme, dill, mint, basil, cilantro, sage and savory. Each herb has specific growing needs, so ensure to provide the right amount of light, humidity, and air circulation. If using a single large container, ensure that all plants require similar amounts of sunlight and water. For instance, chives and cilantro may not need as much sunlight as dill and oregano.

Q

What are good companion plants for herb gardens?

A

Pairing herbs based on watering requirements, like planting lavender with thyme or basil with chives, is ideal for maintaining the health of both plants. Avoid companion planting with catnip, lemon balm and mint as they should be grown in separate pots due to their rapid spreading nature that can overtake other plants in your indoor herb garden.

Q

When do I establish an indoor herb garden?

A

Create a kitchen herb garden by propagating cuttings from your outdoor plants as the weather cools in the fall. If you opt to sow your indoor herb garden from purchased seeds, begin a few weeks before the anticipated first frost of the season. Most herbs can be harvested within a few weeks, so there is no need to plant too far in advance.

Q

Do kitchen herbs need full sun?

A

Most herbs need 6 hours of sunlight a day to thrive. If you do not have this type of light available in your kitchen, consider a grow light that will run 14-16 hours per day 6 to 12 inches above your plants. NOTE: Rotate herbs periodically when grown in windows to let each part of the plant receive sunlight.

Q

What time of year should you plant herbs?

A

Herbs grown in indoor gardens can be planted any time of year. Many gardeners prefer to grow their herbs outdoors during the summer growing season, and then move them to their indoor garden before the first frost of fall. If you prefer to start your seeds outdoors, you will need to wait until after danger of frost in the spring or start your seeds indoors 6 -8 weeks before last frost and transplant in your garden after danger of frost.

Q

Do herbs come back every year?

A

Perennial herbs will come back each year when planted in the correct zone or grown indoors during the cold winter months. Popular perennial herbs are oregano, parsley, sage, fennel, chives, lavender, thyme and mint varieties.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need watered?

A

Allow the soil to dry out just slightly before watering your herbs again. Give your indoor herb garden a dose of diluted water-soluble fertilizer every 2 weeks or so. Too much food will compromise the taste of the herbs. It is also beneficial to provide adequate humidity. If the indoor air is especially dry – which is often the case in regions with cold winters. Set the herbs pots on trays of stones. Fill the trays with water but keep the level below the drainage holes of your pots.

Q

When do I water my outdoor herb garden?

A

Different herb plants will need different amounts of water so keep this in mind when planting your garden and keep similar plants together to simplify watering. Watering is best done in the early morning hours when temperatures are cooler. Many herbs are hardy. They can tolerate soil that is moderately dry. You want to keep an eye out for wilting when the soil is wet. Ideally, your herbs should make quick use of the water you give them. Saturated soil is not what you are after. Pay close attention to the coloration of the leaves on your herbs. Yellow leaves can be a sign of too much water, and so can black leaves. If you spot any mildew or fuzz on the herbs, too much moisture can be the problem.

Q

How do I harvest my herbs?

A

Trim back flowering sections before they bloom for healthier leaves. Prune new growth on young plants weekly to encourage a fuller mature plant. Snip herbs for harvest when they are just a few inches tall. Pruning back the herbs often means a larger, longer harvest. Cut the new growth back at least one per week, even if you are not using the herbs in recipes (see drying and freezing page if you do not want to waste your harvest). Long stems that are about to set flower buds should be trimmed off as they appear.

Q

What do I need to start an indoor herb garden?

A

Common tools needed for an indoor herb garden are: garden trowel, scissors for snipping, stones (optional). Materials for your herbs plants include seed, pots, potting soil, cactus potting soil (optional), pots or trays, fertilizer and a grow light if you do not have adequate sunlight of at least 6 hours per day for your plants.

Q

How do I prepare my containers for planting?

A

Choose large, deep containers with drainage holes to accommodate fast-growing herbs. Fill the container with potting mix leaving about ½ inch clear at the top. Use standard commercial potting soil for most herbs but blend in cactus potting mix for herbs native to the Mediterranean, such as thyme and oregano which prefer dryer soils.

Q

Can I put my indoor herb containers outside?

A

Yes! Move your potted herbs to the patio or deck when the weather warms in the spring and for a boost of sunshine.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need larger containers?

A

When roots begin to emerge through the drainage holes of its container, it is time to repot the herbs. Replace the potting mix; the organic material in the potting mix breaks down over time. Remove any plants with woody or thickened stems and replace them with new seeds or seedlings.

Q

Do herbs need fertilizer?

A

The short answer is yes. However, not all herbs have the same fertilizer needs. Herbs roughly fall into two groups. 1. Slow-growing herbs with small leaves or needles and fibrous, woody stems that are native to the mediterranean where they grow culinary lavender, month, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon and thyme. 2. Fast-growing herbs with larger, thinner leaves. These can be annuals such as basil, borage, cilantro, chervil and dill; bi-annual herbs such as parsley or perennials such as chives. Herbs in the first group generally need less fertilizer than herbs in the second group.

Q

What type of nutrients do herbs need?

A

Start out by planting herbs in healthy soil rich in organic matter. In addition, they will benefit from an organic complete, slow-release fertilizer containing equal amounts of macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A slow-release fertilizer is especially important if your garden has sandy soil because nutrients wash out quickly. To give fast-growing herbs that you harvest often an extra boost, you can also apply fish emulsion, an organic fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, with an NPK ratio of 4-1-1 or 5-1-1.

Q

How often should I fertilize my herbs?

A

The frequency of fertilization follows the growth pattern of the herbs. In soil of average fertility, it is usually sufficient to apply a balanced fertilizer in the spring when they break dormancy, or when the new growing season starts. For other herbs, a light monthly application of a slow-release complete fertilizer should be enough – unless the leaves start to look yellow, which may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. In that case, applying fish emulsion is a quick fix but before you reach for the fertilizer bottle, rule out that the yellowing of leaves is not caused by something else.

Q

How do I fertilize my herbs in a container?

A

Herbs grown in containers need fertilizer applications more often, because with frequent watering that container plants require, the fertilizer in the potting mix washes out more quickly. Just as with sandy soil, it is important to use slow-release fertilizer. The roots of container plants are in a confined space, unlike herbs grown in the garden or raised beds, which can lead to over fertilization if you are not careful. Organic fertilizers are recommended over synthetic which often contain a high level of salts that can build up in the container over time. To prevent this, it is best to use half the strength of the fertilizer amount specified on the label for any type of fertilizer.

Q

Is it possible to overfertilize herbs?

A

Adding too much fertilizer to herbs usually leads to an excess of nitrogen, which has undesirable results especially for slow-growing herbs. For basil and other thin-leaved herbs, the fast leaf growth induced by nitrogen is fine because you want your plants to be lush. For rosemary and other Mediterranean herbs however, rapid growth means that there is less concentration of essential oils causing the herbs to become less aromatic and have weaker flavor.

Q

How do I prepare garden soil before planting an herb garden?

A

Once you have picked the location for growing your herb garden, you will need to prepare the soil. If the soil is sandy or clay heavy, add plenty of compost. Even if your soil is in pretty good condition, working some compost into the soil will help provide nutrients to the herbs while they are growing.

Q

Can I harvest my herbs too often?

A

Many times, when a new gardener is starting an herb garden, they are afraid that harvesting the herbs frequently will hurt them. The opposite is true. Frequent harvesting of herbs will result in the herb plant producing more and more foliage, which increases the amount you are able to harvest. At the end of the season, you can dry or freeze your herb harvest to enjoy home grown herbs all year long.

Q

I don’t have a good sunny spot outdoors for my herb garden, what can I do?

A

If your yard is mostly shaded, there is not much you can do to change that, but you can pick shade friendly herbs. Parsley, sweet woodruff and mint are good examples of herbs that don’t require as much light. If you are growing plants in low light, manage your expectations. Your herbs will grow but will be slow and results less impressive.

Q

My container soil is staying wet, what do I do?

A

Choose a container that allow for water to drain. If you over water or if it rains too much a good pot will allow the water to flow to the bottom without soaking and rotting the roots of your plants. You can use rocks or pottery shards to fill the bottom of the container to help with drainage. This applies outdoors too. If your herbs constantly have wet feet, they won’t thrive. Either plan when planting your garden and add some sand for drainage or pick plants that don’t mind wet roots as much.

Q

My herbs plants are going to seed, why?

A

The short answer is you are not pruning enough. To prevent rapid growth and encourage a bushy habit, be sure to prune your herb plants regularly. The more you pick off your stems and leaves the longer your herb plant will remain in its production cycle. If you start to see flower heads, snip them right away. When you fail to cut back the plant, it is likely to go to seed and complete its lifecycle. Once that happens, many plants die back. Keep cutting and pinching back flowers to prevent this from happening.

Q

Should I throw away my seeds on their expiration date?

A

Seeds do not have an expiration date, rather they are a sell by date just like food. The dates on seed packages are guidelines to help you know when your seeds are getting old, but it does not mean you need to toss them. Every plant is different. Some seeds last longer than others. Most seeds, if kept cool and dry, will last 2 – 3 years. If you are unsure test them out by growing microgreens.

ABOUT
VIDEOS

Flower Specifications

SEASON

Perennial

USDA ZONES

3 - 8

HEIGHT

18 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Summer

BLOOM COLOR

Blue

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun

SOIL TYPE

Well-drained, pH 6.1 - 7.8

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

HOUSE PLANT

No

LATIN NAME

Nepeta Cataria

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

60 - 70F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

7 - 14 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

1/8 inch

SOWING RATE

2 - 3 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

Rows 18 inches a part; thin seedlings 12 inches

Lemon Catnip (Nepeta Cataria) - Start Catnip seeds and grow this attractive plant for your xeriscape garden that attracts beneficial insects. The blue flowers are rich in nectar and attract honey bees. The plant is slightly smaller than other varieties and is better behaved. Nepeta plants can be somewhat sprawling and floppy, so don't hesitate to trim them back a few times during the growing season to neaten them up and encourage more blooms. These herbs can be grown for teas and have a calming effect. Growing Lemon Catnip is a wonderful way to bring a lemony scent to your landscape or garden, and it's a reliable plant giving years of pleasure. Start these flower seeds indoors in late winter for transplanting out after frosts have passed.

Approximate Seeds Per Ounce: 35,000

ABOUT
VIDEOS

Herb Specifications

SEASON

Perennial

USDA ZONES

4 - 9

HEIGHT

60 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Late spring through summer

BLOOM COLOR

Purple

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun to partial shade

SOIL TYPE

Rich organic soil, pH 6.0 - 7.0

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

LATIN NAME

Symphytum Officinale

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

60 - 70F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

If germination does not occur after 14 - 21 days a cooling period of 2 - 4 weeks is recommended

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

1/8 - 1/4 inch deep

SOWING RATE

1 - 2 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination occurs

PLANT SPACING

36 inches

Comfrey (Symphytum Officinale) - Comfrey has been used as a healing herb for centuries. The comfrey herb is native to Asia and Europe, but early English immigrants brought it to North America for medicinal purposes. Common Comfrey, Latin name: Symphytum officinale, grows to be approximately 60 inches tall. It has slender lance-shaped leaves and produces bell-shaped purple flowers that bloom from May to September. Comfrey, even when grown from Comfrey seed, has a deep root system with thick dark-colored roots. Comfrey may have violet, pink or creamy yellow flowers.

Comfrey contains chemicals that speed up wound healing. It has astringent, antifungal and antibacterial properties. Comfrey also contains a wide variety of healthy chemicals and nutrients. It has been recently learned that it can be a carcinogenic when taken internally, but it is still used as a topical treatment for skin irritations, cuts, sprains and swelling.

The form and size of the Comfrey herb might have you thinking it is a shrub, but it will die back to the ground in the winter and it does not get woody. Comfrey has a deep tap root, so it is extremely drought tolerant and a useful clay busting plant. It is also useful as a slug and snail repellent.

Leaves can be harvested and dried at any time. If you are growing it to harvest the leaves, you can make your first cutting when the plants are about 2 feet tall. Cut back to within a few inches of the crow. If you begin harvesting early, you won't get flowers. Leaves, flowers and roots have all been used in traditional medicine, but use extreme caution if you don't know what you're doing. Comfrey should never be taken orally and even a topical application can cause problems.

Grows quickly

Comfrey plants grow up fast early in the season, reaching a height of about 3 or even 5 feet. The lower leaves are large, the plant features hanging bells of flowers at the top of the plant.

Comfrey topical ointment made from comfrey plant

Comfrey | herb seed

How to grow

Planting Comfrey from Seeds: As with all rapid growers, comfrey needs a lot of nitrogen. Comfrey gets all its nitrogen from the soil, so some regular fertilization is essential. It does best with good soil moisture until establishment.

When planted in the right place, it will pretty much take care of itself. Once the comfrey plant is mature and established, it should not require excessive amounts of water and may not need to be watered at all!

  • * Requires cold treatment*
  • Step 1: Sow seed in a moisten soil-less growing medium like peat moss
  • Step 2: enclose in plastic bag or small container then place in refrigerator for a 20-60 days.
  • Step 3: Place in a warm area for germination, providing soil temperatures of 68-80 degrees F
Comfrey plant harvested

Grow your own herbs

Comfrey is a beautiful addition to any border and is great for grabbing attention to the back of a border. Comfrey's tall height makes it a perfect candidate to grow around trees in an orchard. As a nutrient accumulator, comfrey mines the subsoil for nutrients (potassium, phosphorus, calcium, and more).

  • Perfect for permacultures
  • Attracts pollinators
  • Provides habitat for beneficial insects
  • Fertilizes with nutrient-rich mulch
tall comfrey plant

Comfrey: Permaculture Hero

Excellent bioactivator: Adding comfrey cuttings to a compost bin is an easy way to balance out the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio and jumpstart decomposition. The finished compost will have a higher nutrient content with the addition of comfrey

Conditions soil: Comfrey’s deep roots (up to 6 feet deep!) break up tough clay and create channels for aeration and better water absorption. If you have an area with compacted soil where you plan to grow perennials in the future, plant the area with comfrey to break up and loosen the soil in preparation.

Mulch with comfrey: Helps retain moisture and protect beneficial soil organisms. Comfrey mulch decomposes quickly, which activates soil microbes. This will protect your soil and help prevent erosion.


ABOUT
FAQ’s
VIDEOS

Herb Specifications

SEASON

Perennial

USDA ZONES

3 - 9

HEIGHT

24 - 36 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Summer

BLOOM COLOR

Yellow

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun to partial shade

SOIL TYPE

Moist, well-drained soil of average fertility

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

LATIN NAME

Tanacetum Vulgare

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

68F - if no germination in 3 - 4 wks, move to 24 - 39F for 2 - 4 wks

AVERAGE GERM TIME

21 - 28 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

Surface sow and thinly cover

SOWING RATE

5 - 7 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

24 - 36 inches

Tansy (Tanacetum Vulgare) - Start Tansy seeds and grow the commonly known plant Golden Buttons or Common Tansy. Common Tansy herb plants grow to two to three feet tall with small yellow button-like flowers. The Tansy leaves are used dry to make dyes and many forms of insect repellents. This is an herb plant grown from herb seeds that you DO NOT eat.

Insect repellent

Tansy is used as an effective insect repellent and can be an asset in the garden as a companion plant for cucumbers, squash, roses and some berries to help keep the plants pest-free.

tansy flowers

Herb seed | tansy

How to grow

How To Grow Tansy From Seed: Start Tansy seeds directly outdoors once frost danger has passed. Lightly cover the herb seeds and keep them moist. Golden Buttons plants self-sow abundantly by dropping its seeds.

It's best to keep the spent flowers deadheaded in order to keep the Common Tansy herb plants from spreading too aggressively. The herb plants need about an inch of moisture every week.

  • Sowing Rate: 5 - 7 seeds per plant
  • Average Germ Time: 21 - 28 days
  • Keep moist until germination
  • Attracts bees and butterflies
  • Depth: Surface sow and thinly cover
golden buttons herb

Harvesting Tansy

You can harvest Tansy leaves anytime. For best quality, always harvest in the morning after the dew has dried. You can pick the flowers in the afternoon from midsummer to fall when they are almost fully open. Don't use Tansy in cooking, even though you may find older recipes that may include it. Tansy herb may cause illness when taken internally.

  • Height: 24 - 36 inches
  • USDA Zones: 3 - 9
  • Season: Perennial
  • Deer Resistant: Yes

Common Questions

Q

Which herbs can thrive in the kitchen?

A

Not all herbs are suitable for indoor growth. Herbs with woody, bushy growth, like rosemary are too large for indoor herb gardens. Consider other more suitable herbs for an indoor kitchen garden, such as chives, oregano, thyme, dill, mint, basil, cilantro, sage and savory. Each herb has specific growing needs, so ensure to provide the right amount of light, humidity, and air circulation. If using a single large container, ensure that all plants require similar amounts of sunlight and water. For instance, chives and cilantro may not need as much sunlight as dill and oregano.

Q

What are good companion plants for herb gardens?

A

Pairing herbs based on watering requirements, like planting lavender with thyme or basil with chives, is ideal for maintaining the health of both plants. Avoid companion planting with catnip, lemon balm and mint as they should be grown in separate pots due to their rapid spreading nature that can overtake other plants in your indoor herb garden.

Q

When do I establish an indoor herb garden?

A

Create a kitchen herb garden by propagating cuttings from your outdoor plants as the weather cools in the fall. If you opt to sow your indoor herb garden from purchased seeds, begin a few weeks before the anticipated first frost of the season. Most herbs can be harvested within a few weeks, so there is no need to plant too far in advance.

Q

Do kitchen herbs need full sun?

A

Most herbs need 6 hours of sunlight a day to thrive. If you do not have this type of light available in your kitchen, consider a grow light that will run 14-16 hours per day 6 to 12 inches above your plants. NOTE: Rotate herbs periodically when grown in windows to let each part of the plant receive sunlight.

Q

What time of year should you plant herbs?

A

Herbs grown in indoor gardens can be planted any time of year. Many gardeners prefer to grow their herbs outdoors during the summer growing season, and then move them to their indoor garden before the first frost of fall. If you prefer to start your seeds outdoors, you will need to wait until after danger of frost in the spring or start your seeds indoors 6 -8 weeks before last frost and transplant in your garden after danger of frost.

Q

Do herbs come back every year?

A

Perennial herbs will come back each year when planted in the correct zone or grown indoors during the cold winter months. Popular perennial herbs are oregano, parsley, sage, fennel, chives, lavender, thyme and mint varieties.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need watered?

A

Allow the soil to dry out just slightly before watering your herbs again. Give your indoor herb garden a dose of diluted water-soluble fertilizer every 2 weeks or so. Too much food will compromise the taste of the herbs. It is also beneficial to provide adequate humidity. If the indoor air is especially dry – which is often the case in regions with cold winters. Set the herbs pots on trays of stones. Fill the trays with water but keep the level below the drainage holes of your pots.

Q

When do I water my outdoor herb garden?

A

Different herb plants will need different amounts of water so keep this in mind when planting your garden and keep similar plants together to simplify watering. Watering is best done in the early morning hours when temperatures are cooler. Many herbs are hardy. They can tolerate soil that is moderately dry. You want to keep an eye out for wilting when the soil is wet. Ideally, your herbs should make quick use of the water you give them. Saturated soil is not what you are after. Pay close attention to the coloration of the leaves on your herbs. Yellow leaves can be a sign of too much water, and so can black leaves. If you spot any mildew or fuzz on the herbs, too much moisture can be the problem.

Q

How do I harvest my herbs?

A

Trim back flowering sections before they bloom for healthier leaves. Prune new growth on young plants weekly to encourage a fuller mature plant. Snip herbs for harvest when they are just a few inches tall. Pruning back the herbs often means a larger, longer harvest. Cut the new growth back at least one per week, even if you are not using the herbs in recipes (see drying and freezing page if you do not want to waste your harvest). Long stems that are about to set flower buds should be trimmed off as they appear.

Q

What do I need to start an indoor herb garden?

A

Common tools needed for an indoor herb garden are: garden trowel, scissors for snipping, stones (optional). Materials for your herbs plants include seed, pots, potting soil, cactus potting soil (optional), pots or trays, fertilizer and a grow light if you do not have adequate sunlight of at least 6 hours per day for your plants.

Q

How do I prepare my containers for planting?

A

Choose large, deep containers with drainage holes to accommodate fast-growing herbs. Fill the container with potting mix leaving about ½ inch clear at the top. Use standard commercial potting soil for most herbs but blend in cactus potting mix for herbs native to the Mediterranean, such as thyme and oregano which prefer dryer soils.

Q

Can I put my indoor herb containers outside?

A

Yes! Move your potted herbs to the patio or deck when the weather warms in the spring and for a boost of sunshine.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need larger containers?

A

When roots begin to emerge through the drainage holes of its container, it is time to repot the herbs. Replace the potting mix; the organic material in the potting mix breaks down over time. Remove any plants with woody or thickened stems and replace them with new seeds or seedlings.

Q

Do herbs need fertilizer?

A

The short answer is yes. However, not all herbs have the same fertilizer needs. Herbs roughly fall into two groups. 1. Slow-growing herbs with small leaves or needles and fibrous, woody stems that are native to the mediterranean where they grow culinary lavender, month, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon and thyme. 2. Fast-growing herbs with larger, thinner leaves. These can be annuals such as basil, borage, cilantro, chervil and dill; bi-annual herbs such as parsley or perennials such as chives. Herbs in the first group generally need less fertilizer than herbs in the second group.

Q

What type of nutrients do herbs need?

A

Start out by planting herbs in healthy soil rich in organic matter. In addition, they will benefit from an organic complete, slow-release fertilizer containing equal amounts of macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A slow-release fertilizer is especially important if your garden has sandy soil because nutrients wash out quickly. To give fast-growing herbs that you harvest often an extra boost, you can also apply fish emulsion, an organic fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, with an NPK ratio of 4-1-1 or 5-1-1.

Q

How often should I fertilize my herbs?

A

The frequency of fertilization follows the growth pattern of the herbs. In soil of average fertility, it is usually sufficient to apply a balanced fertilizer in the spring when they break dormancy, or when the new growing season starts. For other herbs, a light monthly application of a slow-release complete fertilizer should be enough – unless the leaves start to look yellow, which may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. In that case, applying fish emulsion is a quick fix but before you reach for the fertilizer bottle, rule out that the yellowing of leaves is not caused by something else.

Q

How do I fertilize my herbs in a container?

A

Herbs grown in containers need fertilizer applications more often, because with frequent watering that container plants require, the fertilizer in the potting mix washes out more quickly. Just as with sandy soil, it is important to use slow-release fertilizer. The roots of container plants are in a confined space, unlike herbs grown in the garden or raised beds, which can lead to over fertilization if you are not careful. Organic fertilizers are recommended over synthetic which often contain a high level of salts that can build up in the container over time. To prevent this, it is best to use half the strength of the fertilizer amount specified on the label for any type of fertilizer.

Q

Is it possible to overfertilize herbs?

A

Adding too much fertilizer to herbs usually leads to an excess of nitrogen, which has undesirable results especially for slow-growing herbs. For basil and other thin-leaved herbs, the fast leaf growth induced by nitrogen is fine because you want your plants to be lush. For rosemary and other Mediterranean herbs however, rapid growth means that there is less concentration of essential oils causing the herbs to become less aromatic and have weaker flavor.

Q

How do I prepare garden soil before planting an herb garden?

A

Once you have picked the location for growing your herb garden, you will need to prepare the soil. If the soil is sandy or clay heavy, add plenty of compost. Even if your soil is in pretty good condition, working some compost into the soil will help provide nutrients to the herbs while they are growing.

Q

Can I harvest my herbs too often?

A

Many times, when a new gardener is starting an herb garden, they are afraid that harvesting the herbs frequently will hurt them. The opposite is true. Frequent harvesting of herbs will result in the herb plant producing more and more foliage, which increases the amount you are able to harvest. At the end of the season, you can dry or freeze your herb harvest to enjoy home grown herbs all year long.

Q

I don’t have a good sunny spot outdoors for my herb garden, what can I do?

A

If your yard is mostly shaded, there is not much you can do to change that, but you can pick shade friendly herbs. Parsley, sweet woodruff and mint are good examples of herbs that don’t require as much light. If you are growing plants in low light, manage your expectations. Your herbs will grow but will be slow and results less impressive.

Q

My container soil is staying wet, what do I do?

A

Choose a container that allow for water to drain. If you over water or if it rains too much a good pot will allow the water to flow to the bottom without soaking and rotting the roots of your plants. You can use rocks or pottery shards to fill the bottom of the container to help with drainage. This applies outdoors too. If your herbs constantly have wet feet, they won’t thrive. Either plan when planting your garden and add some sand for drainage or pick plants that don’t mind wet roots as much.

Q

My herbs plants are going to seed, why?

A

The short answer is you are not pruning enough. To prevent rapid growth and encourage a bushy habit, be sure to prune your herb plants regularly. The more you pick off your stems and leaves the longer your herb plant will remain in its production cycle. If you start to see flower heads, snip them right away. When you fail to cut back the plant, it is likely to go to seed and complete its lifecycle. Once that happens, many plants die back. Keep cutting and pinching back flowers to prevent this from happening.

Q

Should I throw away my seeds on their expiration date?

A

Seeds do not have an expiration date, rather they are a sell by date just like food. The dates on seed packages are guidelines to help you know when your seeds are getting old, but it does not mean you need to toss them. Every plant is different. Some seeds last longer than others. Most seeds, if kept cool and dry, will last 2 – 3 years. If you are unsure test them out by growing microgreens.

ABOUT
VIDEOS

Herb Specifications

SEASON

Perennial

USDA ZONES

4 - 9

HEIGHT

36 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Summer

BLOOM COLOR

Purple

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun to partial shade

SOIL TYPE

Well-drained, pH 5.8 - 7.2

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

HOUSE PLANT

No

LATIN NAME

Agastache Rugosa

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

68F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

14 - 21 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

Do not cover the seed but tightly press into the soil

DEPTH

SOWING RATE

2 - 3 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

18 inches

Korean Mint(Agastache Rugosa) - Bring the bees and butterflies to your garden when you start Korean mint seeds and grow this wonderfully fragrant perennial Agastache herb plant. Agastache Rugosa has tall flower spikes that are full of mauve flowers that bloom at different times.



Many common names

This popular herb goes by many names including: blue licorice, purple giant hyssop, Indian mint, wrinkled giant hyssop, huo xiang, Chinese patchouli, and Korean hyssop.

korean mint flowers

Agastache seed | Rugosa

How to grow

How To Grow Agastache From Seed: Growing Korean mint from seed is easy and rewarding. Agastache Rugosa seeds can be directly started outdoors in a prepared seedbed. Press the herb seeds into the soil but do not cover them. The plant is not picky about the soil, but it does prefer to be in full sun to partial shade.

  • Sowing Rate: 2 - 3 seeds per plant
  • Average Germ Time: 14 - 21 days
  • Keep moist until germination
  • Attracts bees, butterflies and hummingbirds
  • Depth: Do not cover, but lightly press seed into soil
agastache rugosa seeds

Flower Specifications

Korean Mint usually reaches 36 inches in height and it's popular with the insects with its liquorice-like scent. These flowers are also very nice for cutting and adding to fresh flower arrangements.

  • Height: 36 inches
  • USDA Zones: 4 - 9
  • Season: Perennial
  • Deer Resistant: Yes
ABOUT
FAQ’s
VIDEOS

Herb Specifications

SEASON

Annual

USDA ZONES

5 - 9

HEIGHT

20 - 24 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Mid summer to early fall

BLOOM COLOR

Yellow

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun

SOIL TYPE

Well drained, dry, rocky, poor soils

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

LATIN NAME

Cnicus Benedictus

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

70F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

14 - 21 days: if no germ move to 39F for 4wks, recycle

LIGHT REQUIRED

No - should be planted in darkness

DEPTH

1/4 inch

SOWING RATE

1 - 2 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

12 - 15 inches

Blessed Thistle (Cnicus Benedictus) - Blessed Thistle seeds are grown as a medicinal herb. The herb is native to the Mediterranean area and has been used for centuries as a cure-all herb. The Blessed Thistle plant is an attractive annual that is freely branching with toothed leaves that have spines. In mid-summer, thistle-like yellow flower heads are produced. The entire plant, stem, leaves and flower heads have a light down covering.

The flowering tops, leaves, and upper stems are used to make medicine. Young tender leaves can be eaten, or dried leaves can be used to make teas. The Blessed Thistle herb has been used to treat numerous ailments over the centuries, including the plague. Today it is used to promote milk production in lactating women and for menstrual problems.

How To Grow Blessed Thistle: Sow Blessed Thistle seeds directly outdoors in the spring after danger of frost has passed. Blessed Thistle grows best in an area of the garden that receives full sun. The ground must offer good drainage. Harvest before it flowers. Plant can be cut back by 1/3 and harvested 2 - 3 times during a growing season. If a few flowers are allowed to go to seed, it will re-seed for next year's use. Birds also enjoy the seed, so some gardeners recommend gathering the herb seeds and sowing it to ensure next year's supply.

Common Questions

Q

Which herbs can thrive in the kitchen?

A

Not all herbs are suitable for indoor growth. Herbs with woody, bushy growth, like rosemary are too large for indoor herb gardens. Consider other more suitable herbs for an indoor kitchen garden, such as chives, oregano, thyme, dill, mint, basil, cilantro, sage and savory. Each herb has specific growing needs, so ensure to provide the right amount of light, humidity, and air circulation. If using a single large container, ensure that all plants require similar amounts of sunlight and water. For instance, chives and cilantro may not need as much sunlight as dill and oregano.

Q

What are good companion plants for herb gardens?

A

Pairing herbs based on watering requirements, like planting lavender with thyme or basil with chives, is ideal for maintaining the health of both plants. Avoid companion planting with catnip, lemon balm and mint as they should be grown in separate pots due to their rapid spreading nature that can overtake other plants in your indoor herb garden.

Q

When do I establish an indoor herb garden?

A

Create a kitchen herb garden by propagating cuttings from your outdoor plants as the weather cools in the fall. If you opt to sow your indoor herb garden from purchased seeds, begin a few weeks before the anticipated first frost of the season. Most herbs can be harvested within a few weeks, so there is no need to plant too far in advance.

Q

Do kitchen herbs need full sun?

A

Most herbs need 6 hours of sunlight a day to thrive. If you do not have this type of light available in your kitchen, consider a grow light that will run 14-16 hours per day 6 to 12 inches above your plants. NOTE: Rotate herbs periodically when grown in windows to let each part of the plant receive sunlight.

Q

What time of year should you plant herbs?

A

Herbs grown in indoor gardens can be planted any time of year. Many gardeners prefer to grow their herbs outdoors during the summer growing season, and then move them to their indoor garden before the first frost of fall. If you prefer to start your seeds outdoors, you will need to wait until after danger of frost in the spring or start your seeds indoors 6 -8 weeks before last frost and transplant in your garden after danger of frost.

Q

Do herbs come back every year?

A

Perennial herbs will come back each year when planted in the correct zone or grown indoors during the cold winter months. Popular perennial herbs are oregano, parsley, sage, fennel, chives, lavender, thyme and mint varieties.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need watered?

A

Allow the soil to dry out just slightly before watering your herbs again. Give your indoor herb garden a dose of diluted water-soluble fertilizer every 2 weeks or so. Too much food will compromise the taste of the herbs. It is also beneficial to provide adequate humidity. If the indoor air is especially dry – which is often the case in regions with cold winters. Set the herbs pots on trays of stones. Fill the trays with water but keep the level below the drainage holes of your pots.

Q

When do I water my outdoor herb garden?

A

Different herb plants will need different amounts of water so keep this in mind when planting your garden and keep similar plants together to simplify watering. Watering is best done in the early morning hours when temperatures are cooler. Many herbs are hardy. They can tolerate soil that is moderately dry. You want to keep an eye out for wilting when the soil is wet. Ideally, your herbs should make quick use of the water you give them. Saturated soil is not what you are after. Pay close attention to the coloration of the leaves on your herbs. Yellow leaves can be a sign of too much water, and so can black leaves. If you spot any mildew or fuzz on the herbs, too much moisture can be the problem.

Q

How do I harvest my herbs?

A

Trim back flowering sections before they bloom for healthier leaves. Prune new growth on young plants weekly to encourage a fuller mature plant. Snip herbs for harvest when they are just a few inches tall. Pruning back the herbs often means a larger, longer harvest. Cut the new growth back at least one per week, even if you are not using the herbs in recipes (see drying and freezing page if you do not want to waste your harvest). Long stems that are about to set flower buds should be trimmed off as they appear.

Q

What do I need to start an indoor herb garden?

A

Common tools needed for an indoor herb garden are: garden trowel, scissors for snipping, stones (optional). Materials for your herbs plants include seed, pots, potting soil, cactus potting soil (optional), pots or trays, fertilizer and a grow light if you do not have adequate sunlight of at least 6 hours per day for your plants.

Q

How do I prepare my containers for planting?

A

Choose large, deep containers with drainage holes to accommodate fast-growing herbs. Fill the container with potting mix leaving about ½ inch clear at the top. Use standard commercial potting soil for most herbs but blend in cactus potting mix for herbs native to the Mediterranean, such as thyme and oregano which prefer dryer soils.

Q

Can I put my indoor herb containers outside?

A

Yes! Move your potted herbs to the patio or deck when the weather warms in the spring and for a boost of sunshine.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need larger containers?

A

When roots begin to emerge through the drainage holes of its container, it is time to repot the herbs. Replace the potting mix; the organic material in the potting mix breaks down over time. Remove any plants with woody or thickened stems and replace them with new seeds or seedlings.

Q

Do herbs need fertilizer?

A

The short answer is yes. However, not all herbs have the same fertilizer needs. Herbs roughly fall into two groups. 1. Slow-growing herbs with small leaves or needles and fibrous, woody stems that are native to the mediterranean where they grow culinary lavender, month, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon and thyme. 2. Fast-growing herbs with larger, thinner leaves. These can be annuals such as basil, borage, cilantro, chervil and dill; bi-annual herbs such as parsley or perennials such as chives. Herbs in the first group generally need less fertilizer than herbs in the second group.

Q

What type of nutrients do herbs need?

A

Start out by planting herbs in healthy soil rich in organic matter. In addition, they will benefit from an organic complete, slow-release fertilizer containing equal amounts of macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A slow-release fertilizer is especially important if your garden has sandy soil because nutrients wash out quickly. To give fast-growing herbs that you harvest often an extra boost, you can also apply fish emulsion, an organic fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, with an NPK ratio of 4-1-1 or 5-1-1.

Q

How often should I fertilize my herbs?

A

The frequency of fertilization follows the growth pattern of the herbs. In soil of average fertility, it is usually sufficient to apply a balanced fertilizer in the spring when they break dormancy, or when the new growing season starts. For other herbs, a light monthly application of a slow-release complete fertilizer should be enough – unless the leaves start to look yellow, which may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. In that case, applying fish emulsion is a quick fix but before you reach for the fertilizer bottle, rule out that the yellowing of leaves is not caused by something else.

Q

How do I fertilize my herbs in a container?

A

Herbs grown in containers need fertilizer applications more often, because with frequent watering that container plants require, the fertilizer in the potting mix washes out more quickly. Just as with sandy soil, it is important to use slow-release fertilizer. The roots of container plants are in a confined space, unlike herbs grown in the garden or raised beds, which can lead to over fertilization if you are not careful. Organic fertilizers are recommended over synthetic which often contain a high level of salts that can build up in the container over time. To prevent this, it is best to use half the strength of the fertilizer amount specified on the label for any type of fertilizer.

Q

Is it possible to overfertilize herbs?

A

Adding too much fertilizer to herbs usually leads to an excess of nitrogen, which has undesirable results especially for slow-growing herbs. For basil and other thin-leaved herbs, the fast leaf growth induced by nitrogen is fine because you want your plants to be lush. For rosemary and other Mediterranean herbs however, rapid growth means that there is less concentration of essential oils causing the herbs to become less aromatic and have weaker flavor.

Q

How do I prepare garden soil before planting an herb garden?

A

Once you have picked the location for growing your herb garden, you will need to prepare the soil. If the soil is sandy or clay heavy, add plenty of compost. Even if your soil is in pretty good condition, working some compost into the soil will help provide nutrients to the herbs while they are growing.

Q

Can I harvest my herbs too often?

A

Many times, when a new gardener is starting an herb garden, they are afraid that harvesting the herbs frequently will hurt them. The opposite is true. Frequent harvesting of herbs will result in the herb plant producing more and more foliage, which increases the amount you are able to harvest. At the end of the season, you can dry or freeze your herb harvest to enjoy home grown herbs all year long.

Q

I don’t have a good sunny spot outdoors for my herb garden, what can I do?

A

If your yard is mostly shaded, there is not much you can do to change that, but you can pick shade friendly herbs. Parsley, sweet woodruff and mint are good examples of herbs that don’t require as much light. If you are growing plants in low light, manage your expectations. Your herbs will grow but will be slow and results less impressive.

Q

My container soil is staying wet, what do I do?

A

Choose a container that allow for water to drain. If you over water or if it rains too much a good pot will allow the water to flow to the bottom without soaking and rotting the roots of your plants. You can use rocks or pottery shards to fill the bottom of the container to help with drainage. This applies outdoors too. If your herbs constantly have wet feet, they won’t thrive. Either plan when planting your garden and add some sand for drainage or pick plants that don’t mind wet roots as much.

Q

My herbs plants are going to seed, why?

A

The short answer is you are not pruning enough. To prevent rapid growth and encourage a bushy habit, be sure to prune your herb plants regularly. The more you pick off your stems and leaves the longer your herb plant will remain in its production cycle. If you start to see flower heads, snip them right away. When you fail to cut back the plant, it is likely to go to seed and complete its lifecycle. Once that happens, many plants die back. Keep cutting and pinching back flowers to prevent this from happening.

Q

Should I throw away my seeds on their expiration date?

A

Seeds do not have an expiration date, rather they are a sell by date just like food. The dates on seed packages are guidelines to help you know when your seeds are getting old, but it does not mean you need to toss them. Every plant is different. Some seeds last longer than others. Most seeds, if kept cool and dry, will last 2 – 3 years. If you are unsure test them out by growing microgreens.

Videos

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