Salad Burnet Seed - Sanguisorba Minor Herb Seeds

Salad Burnet Seeds

1000 Seeds
.......................................................................................................................................................
4.99
2000 Seeds
.......................................................................................................................................................
8.99

About...

Salad Burnet (Sanguisorba Minor) - Start these herb seeds and grow Salad Burnet for a pretty little perennial herb that has culinary use. It makes a very nice container plant or grown in the herb garden, it makes an attractive border. The Salad Burnet herb has uniquely shaped leaves and forms a rounded bush with nice leaf coverage.

MORE HERB OPTIONS

Salad burnet seeds Verbascum seeds - mix Arnica seeds Sorrel herb & microgreens seeds Society garlic seeds Milk thistle seeds Blessed thistle seeds Agastache seeds - rugosa ...More
ABOUT
FAQ's
VIDEOS

Herb Specifications

SEASON

Perennial

USDA ZONES

4 - 9

HEIGHT

12 - 24 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Late spring to mid fall

BLOOM COLOR

Purple

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun to partial shade

SOIL TYPE

ph 6.1 - 7.8

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

68F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

7 - 14 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

Barely cover seed no more than 1/4 inch

SOWING RATE

15 - 20 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

8 - 12 inches apart, in rows 18 inches apart

Useful Herb

Salad burnet was traditionally used against the plague, but today it is often used as an astringent. It is also rich in vitamin C.

Useful Herb

Decorative Garden Herb

How To Grow

Salad burnet seeds should be started directly outdoors in the garden after all danger of frost has passed. Lightly cover the seeds with no more than 1/4 inch of soil. Keep the seeds moist until germination, which should occur in 7-14 days. Once established, harvest the leaves as needed: the young leaves on plants that haven't flowered yet have the best flavor. This plant will spread by rhizomes, but it is not considered to be invasive. It can also self-sow, so deadheading the flowers will prevent spread.

  • Environment: full sun to partial shade
  • sowing rate: 15-20 seeds per plant
  • plant spacing: 8-12 inches apart
Decorative Garden Herb

Plant Information

Salad burnet is a perennial herb that grows in USDA zones 4 through 9. It has been traditionally used as a medicinal herb for its astringent properties, and is also commonly used culinarily in salads and as a decorative garnish. It is rich in vitamin C.

  • Bloom color: purple
  • Bloom season: late spring to mid fall
  • Foliage color: rich green

Salad Burnet (Sanguisorba Minor) - Start these herb seeds and grow Salad Burnet for a pretty little perennial herb that has culinary use. It makes a very nice container plant or grown in the herb garden, it makes an attractive border. The Salad Burnet herb has uniquely shaped leaves and forms a rounded bush with nice leaf coverage. It produces pink-purple flowers which can be pinched out to encourage the production of fresh leaves. Grow the Salad Burnet plant in full sun or partial shade. It is not particular about soil as long as it drains well. Water the herb plant regularly during periods of high temperatures.

Salad Burnet herb is popular for its culinary uses. The leaves have a fresh cucumber flavor and are nice in salads. The pretty leaves also make an attractive garnish. The leaves also are used to flavor vinegars, salad dressings and sauces. The Salad Burnet plant also has been used as a medicinal herb. It contains vitamin C. It was once used against the Plague, but today it is often used as an astringent.

How To Grow Salad Burnet: Start the Salad Burnet seeds directly outdoors after danger of frost has passed. Barely cover the herb seeds with soil. Harvest the leaves as needed. The young leaves on plants that have not flowered have the best flavor. The Salad Burnet plant will spread by rhizomes, but it is not considered to be invasive. It is known to self-seed, but deadheading the flowers will prevent seeds from spreading in the herb garden.

Common Questions

Q

Which herbs can thrive in the kitchen?

A

Not all herbs are suitable for indoor growth. Herbs with woody, bushy growth, like rosemary are too large for indoor herb gardens. Consider other more suitable herbs for an indoor kitchen garden, such as chives, oregano, thyme, dill, mint, basil, cilantro, sage and savory. Each herb has specific growing needs, so ensure to provide the right amount of light, humidity, and air circulation. If using a single large container, ensure that all plants require similar amounts of sunlight and water. For instance, chives and cilantro may not need as much sunlight as dill and oregano.

Q

What are good companion plants for herb gardens?

A

Pairing herbs based on watering requirements, like planting lavender with thyme or basil with chives, is ideal for maintaining the health of both plants. Avoid companion planting with catnip, lemon balm and mint as they should be grown in separate pots due to their rapid spreading nature that can overtake other plants in your indoor herb garden.

Q

When do I establish an indoor herb garden?

A

Create a kitchen herb garden by propagating cuttings from your outdoor plants as the weather cools in the fall. If you opt to sow your indoor herb garden from purchased seeds, begin a few weeks before the anticipated first frost of the season. Most herbs can be harvested within a few weeks, so there is no need to plant too far in advance.

Q

Do kitchen herbs need full sun?

A

Most herbs need 6 hours of sunlight a day to thrive. If you do not have this type of light available in your kitchen, consider a grow light that will run 14-16 hours per day 6 to 12 inches above your plants. NOTE: Rotate herbs periodically when grown in windows to let each part of the plant receive sunlight.

Q

What time of year should you plant herbs?

A

Herbs grown in indoor gardens can be planted any time of year. Many gardeners prefer to grow their herbs outdoors during the summer growing season, and then move them to their indoor garden before the first frost of fall. If you prefer to start your seeds outdoors, you will need to wait until after danger of frost in the spring or start your seeds indoors 6 -8 weeks before last frost and transplant in your garden after danger of frost.

Q

Do herbs come back every year?

A

Perennial herbs will come back each year when planted in the correct zone or grown indoors during the cold winter months. Popular perennial herbs are oregano, parsley, sage, fennel, chives, lavender, thyme and mint varieties.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need watered?

A

Allow the soil to dry out just slightly before watering your herbs again. Give your indoor herb garden a dose of diluted water-soluble fertilizer every 2 weeks or so. Too much food will compromise the taste of the herbs. It is also beneficial to provide adequate humidity. If the indoor air is especially dry – which is often the case in regions with cold winters. Set the herbs pots on trays of stones. Fill the trays with water but keep the level below the drainage holes of your pots.

Q

When do I water my outdoor herb garden?

A

Different herb plants will need different amounts of water so keep this in mind when planting your garden and keep similar plants together to simplify watering. Watering is best done in the early morning hours when temperatures are cooler. Many herbs are hardy. They can tolerate soil that is moderately dry. You want to keep an eye out for wilting when the soil is wet. Ideally, your herbs should make quick use of the water you give them. Saturated soil is not what you are after. Pay close attention to the coloration of the leaves on your herbs. Yellow leaves can be a sign of too much water, and so can black leaves. If you spot any mildew or fuzz on the herbs, too much moisture can be the problem.

Q

How do I harvest my herbs?

A

Trim back flowering sections before they bloom for healthier leaves. Prune new growth on young plants weekly to encourage a fuller mature plant. Snip herbs for harvest when they are just a few inches tall. Pruning back the herbs often means a larger, longer harvest. Cut the new growth back at least one per week, even if you are not using the herbs in recipes (see drying and freezing page if you do not want to waste your harvest). Long stems that are about to set flower buds should be trimmed off as they appear.

Q

What do I need to start an indoor herb garden?

A

Common tools needed for an indoor herb garden are: garden trowel, scissors for snipping, stones (optional). Materials for your herbs plants include seed, pots, potting soil, cactus potting soil (optional), pots or trays, fertilizer and a grow light if you do not have adequate sunlight of at least 6 hours per day for your plants.

Q

How do I prepare my containers for planting?

A

Choose large, deep containers with drainage holes to accommodate fast-growing herbs. Fill the container with potting mix leaving about ½ inch clear at the top. Use standard commercial potting soil for most herbs but blend in cactus potting mix for herbs native to the Mediterranean, such as thyme and oregano which prefer dryer soils.

Q

Can I put my indoor herb containers outside?

A

Yes! Move your potted herbs to the patio or deck when the weather warms in the spring and for a boost of sunshine.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need larger containers?

A

When roots begin to emerge through the drainage holes of its container, it is time to repot the herbs. Replace the potting mix; the organic material in the potting mix breaks down over time. Remove any plants with woody or thickened stems and replace them with new seeds or seedlings.

Q

Do herbs need fertilizer?

A

The short answer is yes. However, not all herbs have the same fertilizer needs. Herbs roughly fall into two groups. 1. Slow-growing herbs with small leaves or needles and fibrous, woody stems that are native to the mediterranean where they grow culinary lavender, month, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon and thyme. 2. Fast-growing herbs with larger, thinner leaves. These can be annuals such as basil, borage, cilantro, chervil and dill; bi-annual herbs such as parsley or perennials such as chives. Herbs in the first group generally need less fertilizer than herbs in the second group.

Q

What type of nutrients do herbs need?

A

Start out by planting herbs in healthy soil rich in organic matter. In addition, they will benefit from an organic complete, slow-release fertilizer containing equal amounts of macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A slow-release fertilizer is especially important if your garden has sandy soil because nutrients wash out quickly. To give fast-growing herbs that you harvest often an extra boost, you can also apply fish emulsion, an organic fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, with an NPK ratio of 4-1-1 or 5-1-1.

Q

How often should I fertilize my herbs?

A

The frequency of fertilization follows the growth pattern of the herbs. In soil of average fertility, it is usually sufficient to apply a balanced fertilizer in the spring when they break dormancy, or when the new growing season starts. For other herbs, a light monthly application of a slow-release complete fertilizer should be enough – unless the leaves start to look yellow, which may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. In that case, applying fish emulsion is a quick fix but before you reach for the fertilizer bottle, rule out that the yellowing of leaves is not caused by something else.

Q

How do I fertilize my herbs in a container?

A

Herbs grown in containers need fertilizer applications more often, because with frequent watering that container plants require, the fertilizer in the potting mix washes out more quickly. Just as with sandy soil, it is important to use slow-release fertilizer. The roots of container plants are in a confined space, unlike herbs grown in the garden or raised beds, which can lead to over fertilization if you are not careful. Organic fertilizers are recommended over synthetic which often contain a high level of salts that can build up in the container over time. To prevent this, it is best to use half the strength of the fertilizer amount specified on the label for any type of fertilizer.

Q

Is it possible to overfertilize herbs?

A

Adding too much fertilizer to herbs usually leads to an excess of nitrogen, which has undesirable results especially for slow-growing herbs. For basil and other thin-leaved herbs, the fast leaf growth induced by nitrogen is fine because you want your plants to be lush. For rosemary and other Mediterranean herbs however, rapid growth means that there is less concentration of essential oils causing the herbs to become less aromatic and have weaker flavor.

Q

How do I prepare garden soil before planting an herb garden?

A

Once you have picked the location for growing your herb garden, you will need to prepare the soil. If the soil is sandy or clay heavy, add plenty of compost. Even if your soil is in pretty good condition, working some compost into the soil will help provide nutrients to the herbs while they are growing.

Q

Can I harvest my herbs too often?

A

Many times, when a new gardener is starting an herb garden, they are afraid that harvesting the herbs frequently will hurt them. The opposite is true. Frequent harvesting of herbs will result in the herb plant producing more and more foliage, which increases the amount you are able to harvest. At the end of the season, you can dry or freeze your herb harvest to enjoy home grown herbs all year long.

Q

I don’t have a good sunny spot outdoors for my herb garden, what can I do?

A

If your yard is mostly shaded, there is not much you can do to change that, but you can pick shade friendly herbs. Parsley, sweet woodruff and mint are good examples of herbs that don’t require as much light. If you are growing plants in low light, manage your expectations. Your herbs will grow but will be slow and results less impressive.

Q

My container soil is staying wet, what do I do?

A

Choose a container that allow for water to drain. If you over water or if it rains too much a good pot will allow the water to flow to the bottom without soaking and rotting the roots of your plants. You can use rocks or pottery shards to fill the bottom of the container to help with drainage. This applies outdoors too. If your herbs constantly have wet feet, they won’t thrive. Either plan when planting your garden and add some sand for drainage or pick plants that don’t mind wet roots as much.

Q

My herbs plants are going to seed, why?

A

The short answer is you are not pruning enough. To prevent rapid growth and encourage a bushy habit, be sure to prune your herb plants regularly. The more you pick off your stems and leaves the longer your herb plant will remain in its production cycle. If you start to see flower heads, snip them right away. When you fail to cut back the plant, it is likely to go to seed and complete its lifecycle. Once that happens, many plants die back. Keep cutting and pinching back flowers to prevent this from happening.

Q

Should I throw away my seeds on their expiration date?

A

Seeds do not have an expiration date, rather they are a sell by date just like food. The dates on seed packages are guidelines to help you know when your seeds are getting old, but it does not mean you need to toss them. Every plant is different. Some seeds last longer than others. Most seeds, if kept cool and dry, will last 2 – 3 years. If you are unsure test them out by growing microgreens.

ABOUT
FAQ's
VIDEOS

Flower Specifications

SEASON

Perennial

USDA ZONES

5 - 8

HEIGHT

24 - 36 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Late spring through summer

BLOOM COLOR

Mix

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun

SOIL TYPE

Well-drained, pH 5.8 - 6.8

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

68F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

14 - 21 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

Do not cover the seed but press into the soil

SOWING RATE

8 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

18 - 24 inches

Verbascum (Verbascum Phoenicium Hybrids Mix) - This free flowering mix grown from Verbascum seeds will give your garden weeks of lovely colors. Commonly called Purple Mullein, this plant has dark green, crinkly leaves and beautiful spikes of papery-thin, round 5 - petaled blooms in shades of white, rose, and violet. The Purple Mullein plant starts blooming from the bottom of the spike and proceeds upward, opening one by one. Mullein flowers look lovely in a mixed border, and they can bloom from late spring up until the first frost. It is both deer and rabbit resistant, and butterflies love it! Verbascum flowers are excellent for cutting as well. Also considered to be a medicinal herb, the Mullein herb has diuretic, analgesic, expectorant, and antiseptic properties.

How To Grow Mullein From Seed: Plant Mullein seeds indoors 6 - 8 weeks before last frost date. Lightly press the Verbascum flower seeds into the soil, but do not cover with soil since the seeds need light to germinate. Keep constantly moist, not wet, and the herb seeds will germinate in 14 - 21 days. For outdoor sowing, wait until frost danger has passed, and sow Purple Mullein seeds directly into prepared seed bed. Spacing should be about 18 - 24 inches apart. Verbascum Mullein will bloom the first year if the flower seeds are sown early enough in the season. Flowers can be left on to self-seed or can be deadheaded to encourage more blooming.

Common Questions

Q

Is verbascum deer resistant?

A

Yes, deer and rabbits tend to avoid these plants.

Q

Can I grow verbascum in a container?

A

We do not recommend planting in containers due to their size.

Q

Does verbascum attract pollinators?

A

Yes, it attracts bees, hummingbirds and beneficial insects as well.

Q

Can I move my verbascum, I don’t like where I planted it?

A

We do not recommend moving established verbascum as it has a tap root which can be easily damaged.

Q

How is this flower used in the landscape?

A

This plant is very adaptable. It can be used in borders, beds, gravel gardens, cottage gardens and informal gardens.

Q

What are some good companion plants for Verbascum?

A

Geum and oriental poppies are lovely with these flowers.

Q

Do I need to deadhead my blooms?

A

Yes, to encourage a longer bloom season you will need to deadhead your spent blooms. This also helps to keep your plants looking tidy. At the end of your bloom season cut the stalk to its base.

ABOUT
FAQ’s
VIDEOS

Herb Specifications

SEASON

Perennial

USDA ZONES

5 - 8

HEIGHT

20 inches

BLOOM SEASON

May - July

BLOOM COLOR

Yellow

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun to partial shade

SOIL TYPE

Acidic soils, avoid lime

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

68F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

21 - 28 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

1/4 inch

SOWING RATE

2 - 3 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

24 inches

European Perennial

The arnica plant is a wildflower native to Europe that is commonly cultivated for its medicinal properties.

European Perennial

Useful Herb

How To Grow

Arnica is an easy plant to grow. If planting directly outdoors, sow the seeds loosely over prepared soil in the late summer: cover lightly with fine soil or sand. If starting the seeds indoors, plant them in pots a few months before the growing season begins. Place in a bright area. Germination usually occurs in a month, but can sometimes take longer. Indoor seedlings should be transplanted outdoors after all danger of frost has passed. Well-established plants can be propagated in the spring by divisions or cuttings.

  • Environment: full sun to partial shade
  • Soil: acidic
  • Sowing rate: 2-3 seeds per plant
Useful Herb

Plant Specifications

Arnica Montana (also known as Mountain Tobacco) is a flowering perennial herb that grows in USDA zones 5 through 8. It is very useful medicinally, and is traditionally employed as a pain-killer.

  • Bloom color: yellow
  • Bloom season: May through June
  • Plant height: 20 inches

Mountain Tobacco (Arnica Montana) - Also called Leopard's Bane, Wolf's Bane, Mountain Tobacco, and Mountain Arnica. Arnica montana is sometimes grown in herb gardens and has long been used medicinally. This daisy-like mountain flower can be used for: bruises, sprains, soreness and swelling/muscle spasms from sports activity; arthritis set off by seasonal change; general muscle and joint pain. Some people are sensitive to the compound helenalin found in arnica. If you develop a mild rash, then you are probably helenalin-sensitive and should stop using arnica.

As an herb, arnica is usually used topically (on the skin) because it can cause serious side effects when taken by mouth. Oral homeopathic remedies do contain arnica, but they use a diluted form that is not considered dangerous. If you have any question about whether you have the herbal or homeopathic form of arnica, talk to your doctor.

Common Questions

Q

Which herbs can thrive in the kitchen?

A

Not all herbs are suitable for indoor growth. Herbs with woody, bushy growth, like rosemary are too large for indoor herb gardens. Consider other more suitable herbs for an indoor kitchen garden, such as chives, oregano, thyme, dill, mint, basil, cilantro, sage and savory. Each herb has specific growing needs, so ensure to provide the right amount of light, humidity, and air circulation. If using a single large container, ensure that all plants require similar amounts of sunlight and water. For instance, chives and cilantro may not need as much sunlight as dill and oregano.

Q

What are good companion plants for herb gardens?

A

Pairing herbs based on watering requirements, like planting lavender with thyme or basil with chives, is ideal for maintaining the health of both plants. Avoid companion planting with catnip, lemon balm and mint as they should be grown in separate pots due to their rapid spreading nature that can overtake other plants in your indoor herb garden.

Q

When do I establish an indoor herb garden?

A

Create a kitchen herb garden by propagating cuttings from your outdoor plants as the weather cools in the fall. If you opt to sow your indoor herb garden from purchased seeds, begin a few weeks before the anticipated first frost of the season. Most herbs can be harvested within a few weeks, so there is no need to plant too far in advance.

Q

Do kitchen herbs need full sun?

A

Most herbs need 6 hours of sunlight a day to thrive. If you do not have this type of light available in your kitchen, consider a grow light that will run 14-16 hours per day 6 to 12 inches above your plants. NOTE: Rotate herbs periodically when grown in windows to let each part of the plant receive sunlight.

Q

What time of year should you plant herbs?

A

Herbs grown in indoor gardens can be planted any time of year. Many gardeners prefer to grow their herbs outdoors during the summer growing season, and then move them to their indoor garden before the first frost of fall. If you prefer to start your seeds outdoors, you will need to wait until after danger of frost in the spring or start your seeds indoors 6 -8 weeks before last frost and transplant in your garden after danger of frost.

Q

Do herbs come back every year?

A

Perennial herbs will come back each year when planted in the correct zone or grown indoors during the cold winter months. Popular perennial herbs are oregano, parsley, sage, fennel, chives, lavender, thyme and mint varieties.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need watered?

A

Allow the soil to dry out just slightly before watering your herbs again. Give your indoor herb garden a dose of diluted water-soluble fertilizer every 2 weeks or so. Too much food will compromise the taste of the herbs. It is also beneficial to provide adequate humidity. If the indoor air is especially dry – which is often the case in regions with cold winters. Set the herbs pots on trays of stones. Fill the trays with water but keep the level below the drainage holes of your pots.

Q

When do I water my outdoor herb garden?

A

Different herb plants will need different amounts of water so keep this in mind when planting your garden and keep similar plants together to simplify watering. Watering is best done in the early morning hours when temperatures are cooler. Many herbs are hardy. They can tolerate soil that is moderately dry. You want to keep an eye out for wilting when the soil is wet. Ideally, your herbs should make quick use of the water you give them. Saturated soil is not what you are after. Pay close attention to the coloration of the leaves on your herbs. Yellow leaves can be a sign of too much water, and so can black leaves. If you spot any mildew or fuzz on the herbs, too much moisture can be the problem.

Q

How do I harvest my herbs?

A

Trim back flowering sections before they bloom for healthier leaves. Prune new growth on young plants weekly to encourage a fuller mature plant. Snip herbs for harvest when they are just a few inches tall. Pruning back the herbs often means a larger, longer harvest. Cut the new growth back at least one per week, even if you are not using the herbs in recipes (see drying and freezing page if you do not want to waste your harvest). Long stems that are about to set flower buds should be trimmed off as they appear.

Q

What do I need to start an indoor herb garden?

A

Common tools needed for an indoor herb garden are: garden trowel, scissors for snipping, stones (optional). Materials for your herbs plants include seed, pots, potting soil, cactus potting soil (optional), pots or trays, fertilizer and a grow light if you do not have adequate sunlight of at least 6 hours per day for your plants.

Q

How do I prepare my containers for planting?

A

Choose large, deep containers with drainage holes to accommodate fast-growing herbs. Fill the container with potting mix leaving about ½ inch clear at the top. Use standard commercial potting soil for most herbs but blend in cactus potting mix for herbs native to the Mediterranean, such as thyme and oregano which prefer dryer soils.

Q

Can I put my indoor herb containers outside?

A

Yes! Move your potted herbs to the patio or deck when the weather warms in the spring and for a boost of sunshine.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need larger containers?

A

When roots begin to emerge through the drainage holes of its container, it is time to repot the herbs. Replace the potting mix; the organic material in the potting mix breaks down over time. Remove any plants with woody or thickened stems and replace them with new seeds or seedlings.

Q

Do herbs need fertilizer?

A

The short answer is yes. However, not all herbs have the same fertilizer needs. Herbs roughly fall into two groups. 1. Slow-growing herbs with small leaves or needles and fibrous, woody stems that are native to the mediterranean where they grow culinary lavender, month, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon and thyme. 2. Fast-growing herbs with larger, thinner leaves. These can be annuals such as basil, borage, cilantro, chervil and dill; bi-annual herbs such as parsley or perennials such as chives. Herbs in the first group generally need less fertilizer than herbs in the second group.

Q

What type of nutrients do herbs need?

A

Start out by planting herbs in healthy soil rich in organic matter. In addition, they will benefit from an organic complete, slow-release fertilizer containing equal amounts of macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A slow-release fertilizer is especially important if your garden has sandy soil because nutrients wash out quickly. To give fast-growing herbs that you harvest often an extra boost, you can also apply fish emulsion, an organic fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, with an NPK ratio of 4-1-1 or 5-1-1.

Q

How often should I fertilize my herbs?

A

The frequency of fertilization follows the growth pattern of the herbs. In soil of average fertility, it is usually sufficient to apply a balanced fertilizer in the spring when they break dormancy, or when the new growing season starts. For other herbs, a light monthly application of a slow-release complete fertilizer should be enough – unless the leaves start to look yellow, which may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. In that case, applying fish emulsion is a quick fix but before you reach for the fertilizer bottle, rule out that the yellowing of leaves is not caused by something else.

Q

How do I fertilize my herbs in a container?

A

Herbs grown in containers need fertilizer applications more often, because with frequent watering that container plants require, the fertilizer in the potting mix washes out more quickly. Just as with sandy soil, it is important to use slow-release fertilizer. The roots of container plants are in a confined space, unlike herbs grown in the garden or raised beds, which can lead to over fertilization if you are not careful. Organic fertilizers are recommended over synthetic which often contain a high level of salts that can build up in the container over time. To prevent this, it is best to use half the strength of the fertilizer amount specified on the label for any type of fertilizer.

Q

Is it possible to overfertilize herbs?

A

Adding too much fertilizer to herbs usually leads to an excess of nitrogen, which has undesirable results especially for slow-growing herbs. For basil and other thin-leaved herbs, the fast leaf growth induced by nitrogen is fine because you want your plants to be lush. For rosemary and other Mediterranean herbs however, rapid growth means that there is less concentration of essential oils causing the herbs to become less aromatic and have weaker flavor.

Q

How do I prepare garden soil before planting an herb garden?

A

Once you have picked the location for growing your herb garden, you will need to prepare the soil. If the soil is sandy or clay heavy, add plenty of compost. Even if your soil is in pretty good condition, working some compost into the soil will help provide nutrients to the herbs while they are growing.

Q

Can I harvest my herbs too often?

A

Many times, when a new gardener is starting an herb garden, they are afraid that harvesting the herbs frequently will hurt them. The opposite is true. Frequent harvesting of herbs will result in the herb plant producing more and more foliage, which increases the amount you are able to harvest. At the end of the season, you can dry or freeze your herb harvest to enjoy home grown herbs all year long.

Q

I don’t have a good sunny spot outdoors for my herb garden, what can I do?

A

If your yard is mostly shaded, there is not much you can do to change that, but you can pick shade friendly herbs. Parsley, sweet woodruff and mint are good examples of herbs that don’t require as much light. If you are growing plants in low light, manage your expectations. Your herbs will grow but will be slow and results less impressive.

Q

My container soil is staying wet, what do I do?

A

Choose a container that allow for water to drain. If you over water or if it rains too much a good pot will allow the water to flow to the bottom without soaking and rotting the roots of your plants. You can use rocks or pottery shards to fill the bottom of the container to help with drainage. This applies outdoors too. If your herbs constantly have wet feet, they won’t thrive. Either plan when planting your garden and add some sand for drainage or pick plants that don’t mind wet roots as much.

Q

My herbs plants are going to seed, why?

A

The short answer is you are not pruning enough. To prevent rapid growth and encourage a bushy habit, be sure to prune your herb plants regularly. The more you pick off your stems and leaves the longer your herb plant will remain in its production cycle. If you start to see flower heads, snip them right away. When you fail to cut back the plant, it is likely to go to seed and complete its lifecycle. Once that happens, many plants die back. Keep cutting and pinching back flowers to prevent this from happening.

Q

Should I throw away my seeds on their expiration date?

A

Seeds do not have an expiration date, rather they are a sell by date just like food. The dates on seed packages are guidelines to help you know when your seeds are getting old, but it does not mean you need to toss them. Every plant is different. Some seeds last longer than others. Most seeds, if kept cool and dry, will last 2 – 3 years. If you are unsure test them out by growing microgreens.

ABOUT
FAQ’s
VIDEOS

Herb Specifications

SEASON

Perennial

USDA ZONES

3 - 7

HEIGHT

16 - 24 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Mid summer to early fall

BLOOM COLOR

Green

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun to partial shade

SOIL TYPE

Rich, well-drained soil, pH 5.6 - 6.5

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

68F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

7 - 14 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

1/4 inch

SOWING RATE

3 - 4 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

9 - 12 inches

Garden Sorrel...

Is a highly nutritious herb that is high in vitamin A, vitamin C and potassium!

Garden Sorrel...

Sorrel Seeds

How to Grow

Start the Sorrel seeds directly outdoors after frost season has passed. Prepare a seedbed that is located in full sun or partial shade. Add organic matter to the soil. Cover the herb seeds lightly with soil. Sorrel seedlings can establish quickly, and the leaves can be harvested any time after the first couple of months of spring growth.

  • Sowing Rate: 3 - 4 seeds per plant
  • Average Germ Time: 7 - 14 days
  • Moisture: Keep seeds moist until germination
Sorrel Seeds

Plant Specifications

When flower stalks emerge cut them back. Sorrel herb plants should be divided every 3- 5 years and replanted.

  • Height: 16 - 24 inches
  • USDA Zones: 3 - 7
  • Season: Perennial

Garden Sorrel (Rumex Acetosa) - Garden Sorrel is a becoming more well-known and used in the United States as a culinary herb, and it easily grow from Sorrel seeds. It comes from Europe and has been used there for centuries. Its use dates back to the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans. This variety, Green de Belleville, has green arrow-shaped leaves that have a slightly acidic taste and is slower to bolt than other varieties. When the leaves are eaten fresh and added to salads or a sandwich, they add a little zest and tang. The herb leaves can also be chopped or shredded and added to soups for flavoring. Garden Sorrel is also known as Common Sorrel, English Sorrel and simply Sorrel.

Common Sorrel herb has historically been used as a medicinal herb. It has been used to treat fevers and scurvy. The juice from the leaves is used to calm itchy skin rashes and ringworm. English Sorrel herb is a highly nutritious herb. It is high in vitamin A, vitamin C and potassium.

How To Grow Sorrel From Herb Seeds: Start the Sorrel seeds directly outdoors after frost season has passed. Prepare a seedbed that is located in full sun or partial shade. Add organic matter to the soil. Cover the herb seeds lightly with soil. Sorrel seedlings can establish quickly, and the leaves can be harvested any time after the first couple of months of spring growth. When flower stalks emerge cut them back. Sorrel herb plants should be divided every 3- 5 years and replanted.

Common Questions

Q

Which herbs can thrive in the kitchen?

A

Not all herbs are suitable for indoor growth. Herbs with woody, bushy growth, like rosemary are too large for indoor herb gardens. Consider other more suitable herbs for an indoor kitchen garden, such as chives, oregano, thyme, dill, mint, basil, cilantro, sage and savory. Each herb has specific growing needs, so ensure to provide the right amount of light, humidity, and air circulation. If using a single large container, ensure that all plants require similar amounts of sunlight and water. For instance, chives and cilantro may not need as much sunlight as dill and oregano.

Q

What are good companion plants for herb gardens?

A

Pairing herbs based on watering requirements, like planting lavender with thyme or basil with chives, is ideal for maintaining the health of both plants. Avoid companion planting with catnip, lemon balm and mint as they should be grown in separate pots due to their rapid spreading nature that can overtake other plants in your indoor herb garden.

Q

When do I establish an indoor herb garden?

A

Create a kitchen herb garden by propagating cuttings from your outdoor plants as the weather cools in the fall. If you opt to sow your indoor herb garden from purchased seeds, begin a few weeks before the anticipated first frost of the season. Most herbs can be harvested within a few weeks, so there is no need to plant too far in advance.

Q

Do kitchen herbs need full sun?

A

Most herbs need 6 hours of sunlight a day to thrive. If you do not have this type of light available in your kitchen, consider a grow light that will run 14-16 hours per day 6 to 12 inches above your plants. NOTE: Rotate herbs periodically when grown in windows to let each part of the plant receive sunlight.

Q

What time of year should you plant herbs?

A

Herbs grown in indoor gardens can be planted any time of year. Many gardeners prefer to grow their herbs outdoors during the summer growing season, and then move them to their indoor garden before the first frost of fall. If you prefer to start your seeds outdoors, you will need to wait until after danger of frost in the spring or start your seeds indoors 6 -8 weeks before last frost and transplant in your garden after danger of frost.

Q

Do herbs come back every year?

A

Perennial herbs will come back each year when planted in the correct zone or grown indoors during the cold winter months. Popular perennial herbs are oregano, parsley, sage, fennel, chives, lavender, thyme and mint varieties.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need watered?

A

Allow the soil to dry out just slightly before watering your herbs again. Give your indoor herb garden a dose of diluted water-soluble fertilizer every 2 weeks or so. Too much food will compromise the taste of the herbs. It is also beneficial to provide adequate humidity. If the indoor air is especially dry – which is often the case in regions with cold winters. Set the herbs pots on trays of stones. Fill the trays with water but keep the level below the drainage holes of your pots.

Q

When do I water my outdoor herb garden?

A

Different herb plants will need different amounts of water so keep this in mind when planting your garden and keep similar plants together to simplify watering. Watering is best done in the early morning hours when temperatures are cooler. Many herbs are hardy. They can tolerate soil that is moderately dry. You want to keep an eye out for wilting when the soil is wet. Ideally, your herbs should make quick use of the water you give them. Saturated soil is not what you are after. Pay close attention to the coloration of the leaves on your herbs. Yellow leaves can be a sign of too much water, and so can black leaves. If you spot any mildew or fuzz on the herbs, too much moisture can be the problem.

Q

How do I harvest my herbs?

A

Trim back flowering sections before they bloom for healthier leaves. Prune new growth on young plants weekly to encourage a fuller mature plant. Snip herbs for harvest when they are just a few inches tall. Pruning back the herbs often means a larger, longer harvest. Cut the new growth back at least one per week, even if you are not using the herbs in recipes (see drying and freezing page if you do not want to waste your harvest). Long stems that are about to set flower buds should be trimmed off as they appear.

Q

What do I need to start an indoor herb garden?

A

Common tools needed for an indoor herb garden are: garden trowel, scissors for snipping, stones (optional). Materials for your herbs plants include seed, pots, potting soil, cactus potting soil (optional), pots or trays, fertilizer and a grow light if you do not have adequate sunlight of at least 6 hours per day for your plants.

Q

How do I prepare my containers for planting?

A

Choose large, deep containers with drainage holes to accommodate fast-growing herbs. Fill the container with potting mix leaving about ½ inch clear at the top. Use standard commercial potting soil for most herbs but blend in cactus potting mix for herbs native to the Mediterranean, such as thyme and oregano which prefer dryer soils.

Q

Can I put my indoor herb containers outside?

A

Yes! Move your potted herbs to the patio or deck when the weather warms in the spring and for a boost of sunshine.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need larger containers?

A

When roots begin to emerge through the drainage holes of its container, it is time to repot the herbs. Replace the potting mix; the organic material in the potting mix breaks down over time. Remove any plants with woody or thickened stems and replace them with new seeds or seedlings.

Q

Do herbs need fertilizer?

A

The short answer is yes. However, not all herbs have the same fertilizer needs. Herbs roughly fall into two groups. 1. Slow-growing herbs with small leaves or needles and fibrous, woody stems that are native to the mediterranean where they grow culinary lavender, month, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon and thyme. 2. Fast-growing herbs with larger, thinner leaves. These can be annuals such as basil, borage, cilantro, chervil and dill; bi-annual herbs such as parsley or perennials such as chives. Herbs in the first group generally need less fertilizer than herbs in the second group.

Q

What type of nutrients do herbs need?

A

Start out by planting herbs in healthy soil rich in organic matter. In addition, they will benefit from an organic complete, slow-release fertilizer containing equal amounts of macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A slow-release fertilizer is especially important if your garden has sandy soil because nutrients wash out quickly. To give fast-growing herbs that you harvest often an extra boost, you can also apply fish emulsion, an organic fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, with an NPK ratio of 4-1-1 or 5-1-1.

Q

How often should I fertilize my herbs?

A

The frequency of fertilization follows the growth pattern of the herbs. In soil of average fertility, it is usually sufficient to apply a balanced fertilizer in the spring when they break dormancy, or when the new growing season starts. For other herbs, a light monthly application of a slow-release complete fertilizer should be enough – unless the leaves start to look yellow, which may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. In that case, applying fish emulsion is a quick fix but before you reach for the fertilizer bottle, rule out that the yellowing of leaves is not caused by something else.

Q

How do I fertilize my herbs in a container?

A

Herbs grown in containers need fertilizer applications more often, because with frequent watering that container plants require, the fertilizer in the potting mix washes out more quickly. Just as with sandy soil, it is important to use slow-release fertilizer. The roots of container plants are in a confined space, unlike herbs grown in the garden or raised beds, which can lead to over fertilization if you are not careful. Organic fertilizers are recommended over synthetic which often contain a high level of salts that can build up in the container over time. To prevent this, it is best to use half the strength of the fertilizer amount specified on the label for any type of fertilizer.

Q

Is it possible to overfertilize herbs?

A

Adding too much fertilizer to herbs usually leads to an excess of nitrogen, which has undesirable results especially for slow-growing herbs. For basil and other thin-leaved herbs, the fast leaf growth induced by nitrogen is fine because you want your plants to be lush. For rosemary and other Mediterranean herbs however, rapid growth means that there is less concentration of essential oils causing the herbs to become less aromatic and have weaker flavor.

Q

How do I prepare garden soil before planting an herb garden?

A

Once you have picked the location for growing your herb garden, you will need to prepare the soil. If the soil is sandy or clay heavy, add plenty of compost. Even if your soil is in pretty good condition, working some compost into the soil will help provide nutrients to the herbs while they are growing.

Q

Can I harvest my herbs too often?

A

Many times, when a new gardener is starting an herb garden, they are afraid that harvesting the herbs frequently will hurt them. The opposite is true. Frequent harvesting of herbs will result in the herb plant producing more and more foliage, which increases the amount you are able to harvest. At the end of the season, you can dry or freeze your herb harvest to enjoy home grown herbs all year long.

Q

I don’t have a good sunny spot outdoors for my herb garden, what can I do?

A

If your yard is mostly shaded, there is not much you can do to change that, but you can pick shade friendly herbs. Parsley, sweet woodruff and mint are good examples of herbs that don’t require as much light. If you are growing plants in low light, manage your expectations. Your herbs will grow but will be slow and results less impressive.

Q

My container soil is staying wet, what do I do?

A

Choose a container that allow for water to drain. If you over water or if it rains too much a good pot will allow the water to flow to the bottom without soaking and rotting the roots of your plants. You can use rocks or pottery shards to fill the bottom of the container to help with drainage. This applies outdoors too. If your herbs constantly have wet feet, they won’t thrive. Either plan when planting your garden and add some sand for drainage or pick plants that don’t mind wet roots as much.

Q

My herbs plants are going to seed, why?

A

The short answer is you are not pruning enough. To prevent rapid growth and encourage a bushy habit, be sure to prune your herb plants regularly. The more you pick off your stems and leaves the longer your herb plant will remain in its production cycle. If you start to see flower heads, snip them right away. When you fail to cut back the plant, it is likely to go to seed and complete its lifecycle. Once that happens, many plants die back. Keep cutting and pinching back flowers to prevent this from happening.

Q

Should I throw away my seeds on their expiration date?

A

Seeds do not have an expiration date, rather they are a sell by date just like food. The dates on seed packages are guidelines to help you know when your seeds are getting old, but it does not mean you need to toss them. Every plant is different. Some seeds last longer than others. Most seeds, if kept cool and dry, will last 2 – 3 years. If you are unsure test them out by growing microgreens.

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Flower Specifications

SEASON

Perennial

USDA ZONES

7 - 11

HEIGHT

14 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Mid spring to late summer

BLOOM COLOR

Purple

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun

SOIL TYPE

Light, sandy soil, pH 5.6 - 7.5

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

HOUSE PLANT

Yes

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

70F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

14 - 21 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

1/8th inch

SOWING RATE

2 - 3 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

3 - 6 inches

Society Garlic (Tulbaghia Violacea) - Start Society Garlic seeds for both an ornamental and a kitchen herb. The Society Garlic plant has a pleasant garlic smell, and the leaves can be chopped like chives and added to salads, soups, and many dishes. Tulbaghia Society Garlic is also a lovely perennial ornamental that blooms for much of the summer. The leaves are 12 inches long and are grayish green and grass-like. Society Garlic flowers are much showier than those of regular garlic and form umbel-like clusters. Grow the Society Garlic herb in the flower garden or herb garden where it contrasts nicely with plants of other colors, textures and habits.

Grow in pots

To grow pots of Society Garlic, cut off spent blooms and keep the soil moderately moist when the flowers are in bloom, dry if the plants become dormant.

purple garlic flowers

Garlic seed | society

How to grow

How To Grow Society Garlic From Seed: For container grown plants, sow Society Garlic seeds in soil that is very porous. A recommended soil mixture is 1 part perlite, 1 part peat moss, and 1 part potting soil.

If growing the plants outdoors, amend the soil with organic matter so that it drains well. The Society Garlic plants will rot if the soil retains water. Sow the Society Garlic herb seeds on the soil and lightly cover with 1/8 inch of soil and keep the flower seeds moist until germination.

  • Sowing Rate: 2 - 3 seeds per plant
  • Average Germ Time: 14 - 21 days
  • Keep moist until germination
  • Attracts bees and butterflies
  • Depth: 1/8 inch
society garlic seeds

Plant Specifications

A native of South Africa, Society Garlic is a member of the lily family. Because Society Garlic is tender to frost and damaged at temperatures below 25 degrees, only in USDA zones 7 and above can grow it year-round outdoors. The plants do best in full sun and in light, sandy soil.

  • Height: 14 inches
  • USDA Zones: 7 - 11
  • Season: Perennial
  • Deer Resistant: Yes

Common Questions

Q

What are common pest problems with society garlic?

A

When grown outdoors, society garlic plants typically do not attract insects. However, those cultivated in greenhouses or kept indoors during winter may draw aphids or whiteflies. To address these pest issues, use a strong spray of water to rinse the plant and apply insecticidal soap. Additionally, to deter soft-bodied pests, sprinkle a layer of crushed eggshells or another gritty substance around the base of outdoor plants.

Q

Do I need to fertilize my society garlic plants?

A

To enhance drainage and promote blooming, incorporate two to three inches of organic compost or a general-purpose fertilizer into the soil annually in early spring.

Q

How much water should I use caring for my plants?

A

Water your plants gradually and thoroughly, especially during potential droughts in spring or summer. Be cautious not to overwater, as tubers can easily rot when planted in excessively wet or soggy soil. For optimal growth, garlic plants should be watered consistently throughout their growing season, allowed to dry out a bit while blooming, and nearly completely dried out during their winter dormancy.

Q

What are some ways to use society garlic plants around my landscape?

A

These can be stunning in sunny borders, beds, rock gardens, cottage gardens, herb gardens or has edging plants best planted in groups. They also do well in containers.

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Herb Specifications

SEASON

Biennial

USDA ZONES

5 - 10

HEIGHT

40 - 55 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Late spring to mid summer

BLOOM COLOR

Pink

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun

SOIL TYPE

Grows in any type of soil, pH 6.6 - 7.8

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

55 - 70F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

7 - 14 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

1/4 - 1/2 inch

SOWING RATE

1 - 2 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

24 - 36 inches

Milk Thistle (Silybum Marianum) - Milk Thistle seeds grow easily and produce a hardy biennial that is native to the Mediterranean area and has naturalized throughout North America. It is very impressive as an ornamental herb plant. It is tall and stately with large, mottled, spiny foliage that contains a milky sap-like substance and large, thistle-like heads of rose-pink flowers. Milk Thistle herb plants do re-seed themselves, so it is recommended to deadhead the flowers before they set seed. Other common names for this herb plant are Mediterranean Milk Thistle, Marian Thistle, St Mary's Thistle and Holy Thistle.

Milk Thistle is a well-known medicinal herb with a long history of use in the treatment of liver and gallbladder ailments. It is the Milk Thistle seeds that are used medicinally, and they contain silymarin which is a flavonoid. The Milk Thistle herb may have a protective and regenerative effect on liver cells. As a nutritional supplement to support liver function, the seeds can be ground and added to hot cereals or other whole grain dishes.

How To Grow Milk Thistle From Herb Seeds: Grow Milk Thistle seeds directly in the herb garden. Prepare a seedbed and sow the herb seeds in the spring when temperatures have warmed. The Milk Thistle plants prefer full sun, but they are not picky about soils. They are also tolerant of dry and wet soils.

NOTE: Cannot be shipped to Washington State. Any order will be canceled.

Common Questions

Q

Which herbs can thrive in the kitchen?

A

Not all herbs are suitable for indoor growth. Herbs with woody, bushy growth, like rosemary are too large for indoor herb gardens. Consider other more suitable herbs for an indoor kitchen garden, such as chives, oregano, thyme, dill, mint, basil, cilantro, sage and savory. Each herb has specific growing needs, so ensure to provide the right amount of light, humidity, and air circulation. If using a single large container, ensure that all plants require similar amounts of sunlight and water. For instance, chives and cilantro may not need as much sunlight as dill and oregano.

Q

What are good companion plants for herb gardens?

A

Pairing herbs based on watering requirements, like planting lavender with thyme or basil with chives, is ideal for maintaining the health of both plants. Avoid companion planting with catnip, lemon balm and mint as they should be grown in separate pots due to their rapid spreading nature that can overtake other plants in your indoor herb garden.

Q

When do I establish an indoor herb garden?

A

Create a kitchen herb garden by propagating cuttings from your outdoor plants as the weather cools in the fall. If you opt to sow your indoor herb garden from purchased seeds, begin a few weeks before the anticipated first frost of the season. Most herbs can be harvested within a few weeks, so there is no need to plant too far in advance.

Q

Do kitchen herbs need full sun?

A

Most herbs need 6 hours of sunlight a day to thrive. If you do not have this type of light available in your kitchen, consider a grow light that will run 14-16 hours per day 6 to 12 inches above your plants. NOTE: Rotate herbs periodically when grown in windows to let each part of the plant receive sunlight.

Q

What time of year should you plant herbs?

A

Herbs grown in indoor gardens can be planted any time of year. Many gardeners prefer to grow their herbs outdoors during the summer growing season, and then move them to their indoor garden before the first frost of fall. If you prefer to start your seeds outdoors, you will need to wait until after danger of frost in the spring or start your seeds indoors 6 -8 weeks before last frost and transplant in your garden after danger of frost.

Q

Do herbs come back every year?

A

Perennial herbs will come back each year when planted in the correct zone or grown indoors during the cold winter months. Popular perennial herbs are oregano, parsley, sage, fennel, chives, lavender, thyme and mint varieties.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need watered?

A

Allow the soil to dry out just slightly before watering your herbs again. Give your indoor herb garden a dose of diluted water-soluble fertilizer every 2 weeks or so. Too much food will compromise the taste of the herbs. It is also beneficial to provide adequate humidity. If the indoor air is especially dry – which is often the case in regions with cold winters. Set the herbs pots on trays of stones. Fill the trays with water but keep the level below the drainage holes of your pots.

Q

When do I water my outdoor herb garden?

A

Different herb plants will need different amounts of water so keep this in mind when planting your garden and keep similar plants together to simplify watering. Watering is best done in the early morning hours when temperatures are cooler. Many herbs are hardy. They can tolerate soil that is moderately dry. You want to keep an eye out for wilting when the soil is wet. Ideally, your herbs should make quick use of the water you give them. Saturated soil is not what you are after. Pay close attention to the coloration of the leaves on your herbs. Yellow leaves can be a sign of too much water, and so can black leaves. If you spot any mildew or fuzz on the herbs, too much moisture can be the problem.

Q

How do I harvest my herbs?

A

Trim back flowering sections before they bloom for healthier leaves. Prune new growth on young plants weekly to encourage a fuller mature plant. Snip herbs for harvest when they are just a few inches tall. Pruning back the herbs often means a larger, longer harvest. Cut the new growth back at least one per week, even if you are not using the herbs in recipes (see drying and freezing page if you do not want to waste your harvest). Long stems that are about to set flower buds should be trimmed off as they appear.

Q

What do I need to start an indoor herb garden?

A

Common tools needed for an indoor herb garden are: garden trowel, scissors for snipping, stones (optional). Materials for your herbs plants include seed, pots, potting soil, cactus potting soil (optional), pots or trays, fertilizer and a grow light if you do not have adequate sunlight of at least 6 hours per day for your plants.

Q

How do I prepare my containers for planting?

A

Choose large, deep containers with drainage holes to accommodate fast-growing herbs. Fill the container with potting mix leaving about ½ inch clear at the top. Use standard commercial potting soil for most herbs but blend in cactus potting mix for herbs native to the Mediterranean, such as thyme and oregano which prefer dryer soils.

Q

Can I put my indoor herb containers outside?

A

Yes! Move your potted herbs to the patio or deck when the weather warms in the spring and for a boost of sunshine.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need larger containers?

A

When roots begin to emerge through the drainage holes of its container, it is time to repot the herbs. Replace the potting mix; the organic material in the potting mix breaks down over time. Remove any plants with woody or thickened stems and replace them with new seeds or seedlings.

Q

Do herbs need fertilizer?

A

The short answer is yes. However, not all herbs have the same fertilizer needs. Herbs roughly fall into two groups. 1. Slow-growing herbs with small leaves or needles and fibrous, woody stems that are native to the mediterranean where they grow culinary lavender, month, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon and thyme. 2. Fast-growing herbs with larger, thinner leaves. These can be annuals such as basil, borage, cilantro, chervil and dill; bi-annual herbs such as parsley or perennials such as chives. Herbs in the first group generally need less fertilizer than herbs in the second group.

Q

What type of nutrients do herbs need?

A

Start out by planting herbs in healthy soil rich in organic matter. In addition, they will benefit from an organic complete, slow-release fertilizer containing equal amounts of macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A slow-release fertilizer is especially important if your garden has sandy soil because nutrients wash out quickly. To give fast-growing herbs that you harvest often an extra boost, you can also apply fish emulsion, an organic fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, with an NPK ratio of 4-1-1 or 5-1-1.

Q

How often should I fertilize my herbs?

A

The frequency of fertilization follows the growth pattern of the herbs. In soil of average fertility, it is usually sufficient to apply a balanced fertilizer in the spring when they break dormancy, or when the new growing season starts. For other herbs, a light monthly application of a slow-release complete fertilizer should be enough – unless the leaves start to look yellow, which may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. In that case, applying fish emulsion is a quick fix but before you reach for the fertilizer bottle, rule out that the yellowing of leaves is not caused by something else.

Q

How do I fertilize my herbs in a container?

A

Herbs grown in containers need fertilizer applications more often, because with frequent watering that container plants require, the fertilizer in the potting mix washes out more quickly. Just as with sandy soil, it is important to use slow-release fertilizer. The roots of container plants are in a confined space, unlike herbs grown in the garden or raised beds, which can lead to over fertilization if you are not careful. Organic fertilizers are recommended over synthetic which often contain a high level of salts that can build up in the container over time. To prevent this, it is best to use half the strength of the fertilizer amount specified on the label for any type of fertilizer.

Q

Is it possible to overfertilize herbs?

A

Adding too much fertilizer to herbs usually leads to an excess of nitrogen, which has undesirable results especially for slow-growing herbs. For basil and other thin-leaved herbs, the fast leaf growth induced by nitrogen is fine because you want your plants to be lush. For rosemary and other Mediterranean herbs however, rapid growth means that there is less concentration of essential oils causing the herbs to become less aromatic and have weaker flavor.

Q

How do I prepare garden soil before planting an herb garden?

A

Once you have picked the location for growing your herb garden, you will need to prepare the soil. If the soil is sandy or clay heavy, add plenty of compost. Even if your soil is in pretty good condition, working some compost into the soil will help provide nutrients to the herbs while they are growing.

Q

Can I harvest my herbs too often?

A

Many times, when a new gardener is starting an herb garden, they are afraid that harvesting the herbs frequently will hurt them. The opposite is true. Frequent harvesting of herbs will result in the herb plant producing more and more foliage, which increases the amount you are able to harvest. At the end of the season, you can dry or freeze your herb harvest to enjoy home grown herbs all year long.

Q

I don’t have a good sunny spot outdoors for my herb garden, what can I do?

A

If your yard is mostly shaded, there is not much you can do to change that, but you can pick shade friendly herbs. Parsley, sweet woodruff and mint are good examples of herbs that don’t require as much light. If you are growing plants in low light, manage your expectations. Your herbs will grow but will be slow and results less impressive.

Q

My container soil is staying wet, what do I do?

A

Choose a container that allow for water to drain. If you over water or if it rains too much a good pot will allow the water to flow to the bottom without soaking and rotting the roots of your plants. You can use rocks or pottery shards to fill the bottom of the container to help with drainage. This applies outdoors too. If your herbs constantly have wet feet, they won’t thrive. Either plan when planting your garden and add some sand for drainage or pick plants that don’t mind wet roots as much.

Q

My herbs plants are going to seed, why?

A

The short answer is you are not pruning enough. To prevent rapid growth and encourage a bushy habit, be sure to prune your herb plants regularly. The more you pick off your stems and leaves the longer your herb plant will remain in its production cycle. If you start to see flower heads, snip them right away. When you fail to cut back the plant, it is likely to go to seed and complete its lifecycle. Once that happens, many plants die back. Keep cutting and pinching back flowers to prevent this from happening.

Q

Should I throw away my seeds on their expiration date?

A

Seeds do not have an expiration date, rather they are a sell by date just like food. The dates on seed packages are guidelines to help you know when your seeds are getting old, but it does not mean you need to toss them. Every plant is different. Some seeds last longer than others. Most seeds, if kept cool and dry, will last 2 – 3 years. If you are unsure test them out by growing microgreens.

ABOUT
FAQ’s
VIDEOS

Herb Specifications

SEASON

Annual

USDA ZONES

5 - 9

HEIGHT

20 - 24 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Mid summer to early fall

BLOOM COLOR

Yellow

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun

SOIL TYPE

Well drained, dry, rocky, poor soils

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

70F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

14 - 21 days: if no germ move to 39F for 4wks, recycle

LIGHT REQUIRED

No - should be planted in darkness

DEPTH

1/4 inch

SOWING RATE

1 - 2 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

12 - 15 inches

Useful Garden Herb

This thistle variety sports a unique colorful appearance and is traditionally used as a medicinal herb.

Useful Garden Herb

Medicinal Annual

How to Grow

Blessed thistle is best sown directly outdoors in the spring after all danger of frost has passed. The seeds require darkness to germinate, and should be planted at a depth of 1/4 inch. Plant in an area of full sun in ground that offers good drainage. Rocky and poor soil is acceptable. Keep seeds moist until germination, but if no germination occurs within 3 weeks, move to 39F degrees for 4 weeks. The mature plant should be cut back by 1/3 and harvested 2-3 times during a growing season. If a few flowers are allowed to go to seed, it should return the following year.

  • Environment: full sun
  • Soil: well-drained but rocky
  • Sowing rate: 1-2 seeds per plant
Medicinal Annual

Plant Specifications

Blessed thistle is a flowering annual herb that grows in USDA zones 5 through 9. It is native to the Mediterranean region, and grows best in poor, dry, rocky soil. It is used for a variety of medicinal purposes.

  • Bloom color: yellow
  • Bloom season: mid summer to early fall
  • Plant height: 20-24 inches

Blessed Thistle (Cnicus Benedictus) - Blessed Thistle seeds are grown as a medicinal herb. The herb is native to the Mediterranean area and has been used for centuries as a cure-all herb. The Blessed Thistle plant is an attractive annual that is freely branching with toothed leaves that have spines. In mid-summer, thistle-like yellow flower heads are produced. The entire plant, stem, leaves and flower heads have a light down covering.

The flowering tops, leaves, and upper stems are used to make medicine. Young tender leaves can be eaten, or dried leaves can be used to make teas. The Blessed Thistle herb has been used to treat numerous ailments over the centuries, including the plague. Today it is used to promote milk production in lactating women and for menstrual problems.

How To Grow Blessed Thistle: Sow Blessed Thistle seeds directly outdoors in the spring after danger of frost has passed. Blessed Thistle grows best in an area of the garden that receives full sun. The ground must offer good drainage. Harvest before it flowers. Plant can be cut back by 1/3 and harvested 2 - 3 times during a growing season. If a few flowers are allowed to go to seed, it will re-seed for next year's use. Birds also enjoy the seed, so some gardeners recommend gathering the herb seeds and sowing it to ensure next year's supply.

Common Questions

Q

Which herbs can thrive in the kitchen?

A

Not all herbs are suitable for indoor growth. Herbs with woody, bushy growth, like rosemary are too large for indoor herb gardens. Consider other more suitable herbs for an indoor kitchen garden, such as chives, oregano, thyme, dill, mint, basil, cilantro, sage and savory. Each herb has specific growing needs, so ensure to provide the right amount of light, humidity, and air circulation. If using a single large container, ensure that all plants require similar amounts of sunlight and water. For instance, chives and cilantro may not need as much sunlight as dill and oregano.

Q

What are good companion plants for herb gardens?

A

Pairing herbs based on watering requirements, like planting lavender with thyme or basil with chives, is ideal for maintaining the health of both plants. Avoid companion planting with catnip, lemon balm and mint as they should be grown in separate pots due to their rapid spreading nature that can overtake other plants in your indoor herb garden.

Q

When do I establish an indoor herb garden?

A

Create a kitchen herb garden by propagating cuttings from your outdoor plants as the weather cools in the fall. If you opt to sow your indoor herb garden from purchased seeds, begin a few weeks before the anticipated first frost of the season. Most herbs can be harvested within a few weeks, so there is no need to plant too far in advance.

Q

Do kitchen herbs need full sun?

A

Most herbs need 6 hours of sunlight a day to thrive. If you do not have this type of light available in your kitchen, consider a grow light that will run 14-16 hours per day 6 to 12 inches above your plants. NOTE: Rotate herbs periodically when grown in windows to let each part of the plant receive sunlight.

Q

What time of year should you plant herbs?

A

Herbs grown in indoor gardens can be planted any time of year. Many gardeners prefer to grow their herbs outdoors during the summer growing season, and then move them to their indoor garden before the first frost of fall. If you prefer to start your seeds outdoors, you will need to wait until after danger of frost in the spring or start your seeds indoors 6 -8 weeks before last frost and transplant in your garden after danger of frost.

Q

Do herbs come back every year?

A

Perennial herbs will come back each year when planted in the correct zone or grown indoors during the cold winter months. Popular perennial herbs are oregano, parsley, sage, fennel, chives, lavender, thyme and mint varieties.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need watered?

A

Allow the soil to dry out just slightly before watering your herbs again. Give your indoor herb garden a dose of diluted water-soluble fertilizer every 2 weeks or so. Too much food will compromise the taste of the herbs. It is also beneficial to provide adequate humidity. If the indoor air is especially dry – which is often the case in regions with cold winters. Set the herbs pots on trays of stones. Fill the trays with water but keep the level below the drainage holes of your pots.

Q

When do I water my outdoor herb garden?

A

Different herb plants will need different amounts of water so keep this in mind when planting your garden and keep similar plants together to simplify watering. Watering is best done in the early morning hours when temperatures are cooler. Many herbs are hardy. They can tolerate soil that is moderately dry. You want to keep an eye out for wilting when the soil is wet. Ideally, your herbs should make quick use of the water you give them. Saturated soil is not what you are after. Pay close attention to the coloration of the leaves on your herbs. Yellow leaves can be a sign of too much water, and so can black leaves. If you spot any mildew or fuzz on the herbs, too much moisture can be the problem.

Q

How do I harvest my herbs?

A

Trim back flowering sections before they bloom for healthier leaves. Prune new growth on young plants weekly to encourage a fuller mature plant. Snip herbs for harvest when they are just a few inches tall. Pruning back the herbs often means a larger, longer harvest. Cut the new growth back at least one per week, even if you are not using the herbs in recipes (see drying and freezing page if you do not want to waste your harvest). Long stems that are about to set flower buds should be trimmed off as they appear.

Q

What do I need to start an indoor herb garden?

A

Common tools needed for an indoor herb garden are: garden trowel, scissors for snipping, stones (optional). Materials for your herbs plants include seed, pots, potting soil, cactus potting soil (optional), pots or trays, fertilizer and a grow light if you do not have adequate sunlight of at least 6 hours per day for your plants.

Q

How do I prepare my containers for planting?

A

Choose large, deep containers with drainage holes to accommodate fast-growing herbs. Fill the container with potting mix leaving about ½ inch clear at the top. Use standard commercial potting soil for most herbs but blend in cactus potting mix for herbs native to the Mediterranean, such as thyme and oregano which prefer dryer soils.

Q

Can I put my indoor herb containers outside?

A

Yes! Move your potted herbs to the patio or deck when the weather warms in the spring and for a boost of sunshine.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need larger containers?

A

When roots begin to emerge through the drainage holes of its container, it is time to repot the herbs. Replace the potting mix; the organic material in the potting mix breaks down over time. Remove any plants with woody or thickened stems and replace them with new seeds or seedlings.

Q

Do herbs need fertilizer?

A

The short answer is yes. However, not all herbs have the same fertilizer needs. Herbs roughly fall into two groups. 1. Slow-growing herbs with small leaves or needles and fibrous, woody stems that are native to the mediterranean where they grow culinary lavender, month, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon and thyme. 2. Fast-growing herbs with larger, thinner leaves. These can be annuals such as basil, borage, cilantro, chervil and dill; bi-annual herbs such as parsley or perennials such as chives. Herbs in the first group generally need less fertilizer than herbs in the second group.

Q

What type of nutrients do herbs need?

A

Start out by planting herbs in healthy soil rich in organic matter. In addition, they will benefit from an organic complete, slow-release fertilizer containing equal amounts of macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A slow-release fertilizer is especially important if your garden has sandy soil because nutrients wash out quickly. To give fast-growing herbs that you harvest often an extra boost, you can also apply fish emulsion, an organic fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, with an NPK ratio of 4-1-1 or 5-1-1.

Q

How often should I fertilize my herbs?

A

The frequency of fertilization follows the growth pattern of the herbs. In soil of average fertility, it is usually sufficient to apply a balanced fertilizer in the spring when they break dormancy, or when the new growing season starts. For other herbs, a light monthly application of a slow-release complete fertilizer should be enough – unless the leaves start to look yellow, which may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. In that case, applying fish emulsion is a quick fix but before you reach for the fertilizer bottle, rule out that the yellowing of leaves is not caused by something else.

Q

How do I fertilize my herbs in a container?

A

Herbs grown in containers need fertilizer applications more often, because with frequent watering that container plants require, the fertilizer in the potting mix washes out more quickly. Just as with sandy soil, it is important to use slow-release fertilizer. The roots of container plants are in a confined space, unlike herbs grown in the garden or raised beds, which can lead to over fertilization if you are not careful. Organic fertilizers are recommended over synthetic which often contain a high level of salts that can build up in the container over time. To prevent this, it is best to use half the strength of the fertilizer amount specified on the label for any type of fertilizer.

Q

Is it possible to overfertilize herbs?

A

Adding too much fertilizer to herbs usually leads to an excess of nitrogen, which has undesirable results especially for slow-growing herbs. For basil and other thin-leaved herbs, the fast leaf growth induced by nitrogen is fine because you want your plants to be lush. For rosemary and other Mediterranean herbs however, rapid growth means that there is less concentration of essential oils causing the herbs to become less aromatic and have weaker flavor.

Q

How do I prepare garden soil before planting an herb garden?

A

Once you have picked the location for growing your herb garden, you will need to prepare the soil. If the soil is sandy or clay heavy, add plenty of compost. Even if your soil is in pretty good condition, working some compost into the soil will help provide nutrients to the herbs while they are growing.

Q

Can I harvest my herbs too often?

A

Many times, when a new gardener is starting an herb garden, they are afraid that harvesting the herbs frequently will hurt them. The opposite is true. Frequent harvesting of herbs will result in the herb plant producing more and more foliage, which increases the amount you are able to harvest. At the end of the season, you can dry or freeze your herb harvest to enjoy home grown herbs all year long.

Q

I don’t have a good sunny spot outdoors for my herb garden, what can I do?

A

If your yard is mostly shaded, there is not much you can do to change that, but you can pick shade friendly herbs. Parsley, sweet woodruff and mint are good examples of herbs that don’t require as much light. If you are growing plants in low light, manage your expectations. Your herbs will grow but will be slow and results less impressive.

Q

My container soil is staying wet, what do I do?

A

Choose a container that allow for water to drain. If you over water or if it rains too much a good pot will allow the water to flow to the bottom without soaking and rotting the roots of your plants. You can use rocks or pottery shards to fill the bottom of the container to help with drainage. This applies outdoors too. If your herbs constantly have wet feet, they won’t thrive. Either plan when planting your garden and add some sand for drainage or pick plants that don’t mind wet roots as much.

Q

My herbs plants are going to seed, why?

A

The short answer is you are not pruning enough. To prevent rapid growth and encourage a bushy habit, be sure to prune your herb plants regularly. The more you pick off your stems and leaves the longer your herb plant will remain in its production cycle. If you start to see flower heads, snip them right away. When you fail to cut back the plant, it is likely to go to seed and complete its lifecycle. Once that happens, many plants die back. Keep cutting and pinching back flowers to prevent this from happening.

Q

Should I throw away my seeds on their expiration date?

A

Seeds do not have an expiration date, rather they are a sell by date just like food. The dates on seed packages are guidelines to help you know when your seeds are getting old, but it does not mean you need to toss them. Every plant is different. Some seeds last longer than others. Most seeds, if kept cool and dry, will last 2 – 3 years. If you are unsure test them out by growing microgreens.

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Herb Specifications

SEASON

Perennial

USDA ZONES

4 - 9

HEIGHT

36 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Summer

BLOOM COLOR

Purple

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun to partial shade

SOIL TYPE

Well-drained, pH 5.8 - 7.2

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

HOUSE PLANT

No

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

68F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

14 - 21 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

Do not cover the seed but tightly press into the soil

SOWING RATE

2 - 3 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

18 inches

Korean Mint(Agastache Rugosa) - Bring the bees and butterflies to your garden when you start Korean mint seeds and grow this wonderfully fragrant perennial Agastache herb plant. Agastache Rugosa has tall flower spikes that are full of mauve flowers that bloom at different times.



Many common names

This popular herb goes by many names including: blue licorice, purple giant hyssop, Indian mint, wrinkled giant hyssop, huo xiang, Chinese patchouli, and Korean hyssop.

korean mint flowers

Agastache seed | Rugosa

How to grow

How To Grow Agastache From Seed: Growing Korean mint from seed is easy and rewarding. Agastache Rugosa seeds can be directly started outdoors in a prepared seedbed. Press the herb seeds into the soil but do not cover them. The plant is not picky about the soil, but it does prefer to be in full sun to partial shade.

  • Sowing Rate: 2 - 3 seeds per plant
  • Average Germ Time: 14 - 21 days
  • Keep moist until germination
  • Attracts bees, butterflies and hummingbirds
  • Depth: Do not cover, but lightly press seed into soil
agastache rugosa seeds

Flower Specifications

Korean Mint usually reaches 36 inches in height and it's popular with the insects with its liquorice-like scent. These flowers are also very nice for cutting and adding to fresh flower arrangements.

  • Height: 36 inches
  • USDA Zones: 4 - 9
  • Season: Perennial
  • Deer Resistant: Yes

Common Questions

Q

How can I encourage my Agastache to continue to bloom?

A

Trim the tips of the growth in spring when the plants reach around 6 inches tall to promote branching. Regularly remove spent flowers during the growing season to ensure continuous blooming.

Q

Do I need to deadhead my Agastache?

A

Deadheading agastache flowers promotes more blooms and helps manage the plant's tendency to self-seed. While not essential, removing spent flowers maintains plant neatness and prevents excessive self-seeding by agastache.

For further pruning, consider whether you are cultivating agastache as a perennial or annual plant. For perennials, trim back about one-third of the plant in spring to stimulate fresh growth. Continue pinching and deadheading until midsummer, as new growth is sensitive to cold and could jeopardize the plant's survival in winter. If growing agastache as an annual, ongoing pinching and deadheading throughout the season is suitable.

Q

Are agastache invasive?

A

If you have planted hummingbird mint, or any other type of agastache, in your garden, you may notice that it spreads similar to mint. This plant tends to self-seed abundantly, but removing the seedlings is a simple task. Additionally, you can prevent seeds from dropping by removing the spent flowerheads. Despite its tendency to spread, agastache is not classified as invasive, especially if you choose a variety native to your region.

Q

Is it easy to grow agastache from seed?

A

Agastache can be grown from seed quite easily, but the seeds need cold stratification and light for germination. For this reason, it is recommended to start agastache seeds in the fall or winter with minimal covering.

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